I've been very happily using my glider in my woodshop for a couple of years now. I have had one bad problem with it, wondering if others have experienced anything similar
The problem is that really thin off cuts will jam in the gap between the right side of the blade and the table. The worst is if they are slightly tapered, then they act like wedges. They often make a spectacular and disturbing KERWHAM! type of noise as they get jammed falling in the gap and then driven out by the blade.
Maybe this was never a problem back when these things were being used to cut lead type, lead type is pretty soft compared to most hardwoods.
I am pretty sure that I have bent the blade as a result of this. My blade now wobbles visibly as it slows down, and I've measured the run out on the blade at .020", which I am pretty sure is extremely bad.
This has created another problem, which is that the wobbly blade now tends to brush up a tiny bit against the left edge of the table as the blade is raised up. I further believe that this rubbing has dulled the left side of the teeth, as I am also getting a lot of tear out on my cuts now.
Anyway, I am wondering if I am the only one to experience this, if my diagnosis seems reasonable, and what people are doing to prevent it on their Gliders??
I'm using a Forrest WWI blade.
Dan
PS another problem for a future post is that the clamp won't hold small pieces straight/square.
Hammond Glider Off cuts Jamming Problem
Moderator: crzypete
Hi Dan,
This is definitely a serious problem in all aspects. What you are experiencing is a relative of a kick-back and is dangerous to both you and the saw and quite scary.
I personally have had not had issues with my hammond jamming cut-offs like this. It happens occasionally on my bigger saw, especially as the throat plates start getting sloppy. The hammonds mostly blow them away from the blade, but perhaps I am overdue for a nasty episode like this.
I would question the possibility that your saw is not centered properly in the slot? Avoiding this from happening in the future is important. You may have to adjust the blade as to where it sits in that opening, I can walk you through this if it needs to be done.
To solve the accuracy of your saw in the present I would investigate whether the saw blade is damaged or the arbor is damaged. I believe Forrest will straighten a bent saw blade. I have personally turned the arbors as well, so that is fixable as well.
First step is to remove the blade and use a dial indicator on the arbor. It should be about perfect- .001 at the most. You may try reseating everything.
Definitely send the blade to forrest to have them sharpen it if it is dull- I am in the process of sharpening almost all of my forrest blades at the moment- my second batch is there right now.
As to the clamp, I have found that if you spring it out bit- away from the finger as you clamp it, it tends to give a bit more pull towards the finger and thus aligns a bit better.
Pete
This is definitely a serious problem in all aspects. What you are experiencing is a relative of a kick-back and is dangerous to both you and the saw and quite scary.
I personally have had not had issues with my hammond jamming cut-offs like this. It happens occasionally on my bigger saw, especially as the throat plates start getting sloppy. The hammonds mostly blow them away from the blade, but perhaps I am overdue for a nasty episode like this.
I would question the possibility that your saw is not centered properly in the slot? Avoiding this from happening in the future is important. You may have to adjust the blade as to where it sits in that opening, I can walk you through this if it needs to be done.
To solve the accuracy of your saw in the present I would investigate whether the saw blade is damaged or the arbor is damaged. I believe Forrest will straighten a bent saw blade. I have personally turned the arbors as well, so that is fixable as well.
First step is to remove the blade and use a dial indicator on the arbor. It should be about perfect- .001 at the most. You may try reseating everything.
Definitely send the blade to forrest to have them sharpen it if it is dull- I am in the process of sharpening almost all of my forrest blades at the moment- my second batch is there right now.
As to the clamp, I have found that if you spring it out bit- away from the finger as you clamp it, it tends to give a bit more pull towards the finger and thus aligns a bit better.
Pete
Thanks Pete,
I have my blade set to be quite close to the left side, it is not in the middle of the slot. I could certainly move it over to make it more centred, is that what you recommend? My original thinking was to keep it as close to the left of the slot as possible to reduce any tear out on the bottom of the cut.
Unfortunately it is my only tablesaw, and only blade, if I send my blade off to Forrest I will be sawless. I will check my local straightening shop to see if they can help. Will also check the arbor.
Thanks for the help as always!
I have my blade set to be quite close to the left side, it is not in the middle of the slot. I could certainly move it over to make it more centred, is that what you recommend? My original thinking was to keep it as close to the left of the slot as possible to reduce any tear out on the bottom of the cut.
Unfortunately it is my only tablesaw, and only blade, if I send my blade off to Forrest I will be sawless. I will check my local straightening shop to see if they can help. Will also check the arbor.
Thanks for the help as always!
Hi Dan,
Make sure your local place is good and knows what they are dealing with- the Forrest blade has C4 carbide and thus needs special treatment when re-sharpening. You should also check for chipped teeth if it is hitting the table edge. Forrest will fix chipped teeth. i am a big fan of their blades and service thereafter. Love the serial number on each blade!
Peter
Make sure your local place is good and knows what they are dealing with- the Forrest blade has C4 carbide and thus needs special treatment when re-sharpening. You should also check for chipped teeth if it is hitting the table edge. Forrest will fix chipped teeth. i am a big fan of their blades and service thereafter. Love the serial number on each blade!
Peter