How can square up my trim-o-saw blade?

hartcorndesign · Post by **hartcorndesign** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 12:13 pm

crzypete · Post by **crzypete** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 12:40 pm

You'll have to be more specific with your problem. They can be out of square in many ways.

peter

hartcorndesign · Post by **hartcorndesign** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 12:52 pm

I'm trying to square up the blade to the table. The cross cut is at 91 degrees or so off the table

crzypete · Post by **crzypete** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 12:54 pm

Are you saying that is is tilted like a normal table saw would tilt if you angled the blade, or it is not cutting square to the fence?

Also, what model saw do you have?

Peter

hartcorndesign · Post by **hartcorndesign** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 1:59 pm

Hi Peter, It's not really square to the fence, but I think I can deal with that. I'm more concerned with the blade/arbor square to the table. I have a model G4.
Thanks, John

crzypete · Post by **crzypete** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 3:48 pm

To solve blade squareness to the table it is best to figure out where it is coming from. There are two spots to look.

#1 check that the arbor mounting is bolted down correctly. You may need to remove it and clean the surface and rebolt it. It is located with two taper pins that have nuts on them. it is common practice to tighten those nuts, but that is a mistake. The nuts purpose is to extract the taper pins, so by tightening the nuts you are loosening the pins- This often leads to misalignment of the blade, but not in the plane you are having issues with.

#2 and this will be my guess for your saw. I am guessing that the ways are quite worn and you are having issues that stem from this. This is a common problem with a G4 that does not have steel way inserts. You can tighten the ways up a bit with there take up bolts and set-screws on the left side, but it has been my experience that it is impossible to get it perfect again. The reason is that they are normally most worn in the middle, so by pinching the middle tighter on the left side you are still dipping on the right side- actually this may be what is causing your blade mis-alignment- if it was badly worn and adjusted. I guess the wear take-up may have been intended to be combined with machining where you would machine the sides straight and then take-up the slop.

A quick way to check for table slop is to try to lift it up at different parts of it travel, if there is slop you will noticeably feel it.

If neither of these two fixes help, you can add a shim under the arbor area where it bolts to the saw to try to solve the problem.

Pete

hartcorndesign · Post by **hartcorndesign** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 4:56 pm

Thanks for your help Pete

DMK · Post by **DMK** » Tue Dec 23, 2014 12:16 pm

I've got a G4 with all the problems you mention in this thread. I've chased down most of the alignment issues, but the arbor mounting is the final piece. On my saw (1946 model) the locating pins do not have nuts to pull them out, and I can't seem to get them loose to get a shim in there. Any suggestions on how to remove the arbor mounting pins without destroying the alignment in other planes?