i'm in a position where i really need a multi router type thing for joinery - I make a lot of chairs, tables with odd shaped legs and often very large hunks of wood before shaping - things that are unwieldy on the tablesaw and making router jigs gets annoying for every one-off.
The multi router is actually perfect for this - having that third axis is really important.
Having said that, I'm against it. It's way overpriced, and I can buy a bridgeport at auction for under $1000, easy, and it can do SO much more, in terms of general use, but it can't do that third axis thing easily. Or can it? I'm a woodworking machine guy, so I don't know too much about these machines. Is there a model with a long spindle throw, or a real third axis built into the design?
Help me not give JDS $2700 AND have to buy another router to boot, and still not have a bridgeport to do all those other cool things it'd be useful for - there must be another way.
Anyone?
multi router vs. bridgeport
Moderator: crzypete
Hey BS
I'd like to start by saying I don't own either of the machines but I do know for a fact that there are people on this list that own both. it seems to me with the application you described you are going to have to suck it up and buy a multi router. the multi-router is more versatile than a bridgeport. The fact that the table tilts is a major factor. it is designed to do exactly this type of application (weird compound joints on wood). The bridgeport is a heavy anchor designed for metal working. Much slower, heavier than the agile fast multi-router. if you include all the fancy jigs and hold downs that you can purchase with the Multi-router i think it is way more versatile. The hold downs on a bridgeport ar designed to hold metal they will dent and ruin your wooden parts.
that's my two cents.
good luck, I'm sure there will be others who will give there opinions as well.
I'd like to start by saying I don't own either of the machines but I do know for a fact that there are people on this list that own both. it seems to me with the application you described you are going to have to suck it up and buy a multi router. the multi-router is more versatile than a bridgeport. The fact that the table tilts is a major factor. it is designed to do exactly this type of application (weird compound joints on wood). The bridgeport is a heavy anchor designed for metal working. Much slower, heavier than the agile fast multi-router. if you include all the fancy jigs and hold downs that you can purchase with the Multi-router i think it is way more versatile. The hold downs on a bridgeport ar designed to hold metal they will dent and ruin your wooden parts.
that's my two cents.
good luck, I'm sure there will be others who will give there opinions as well.
I have to agree with Guzziguy. They are two separate machines. I have seen mortisers made from horizontal milling machines, and I have cut mortises on a bridgeport, but they do not compare to the ease and versatility of the multirouter.
You can comprimise and get the cheaper mill. If you do, I would recommend the addition of a right angle quill attachment (like this ) which would allow the bridgeport to actually get into the end of a board. You also would want to make sure the bridgeport has left and right stops, and possibly the ultra-rare in and out stops- I have only seen this on my machine - it could be a homemade job, but whomever did it did it right.
I would think you could rig up a tilting table to a mill- or buy one of the aftermarket ones available.
I also think you would be able to create some hold-downs that would be fairly comparable to the Multi-router.
You will never equal the convenience and speed of the multirouter though. Especially if you take advantage of it's ability to cut using templates- whether you cut integral tenons or make your own templates for specialty projects.
Quite a debate, I know that moving the bridgeport has got to be valued at something as well. So factor that in when you crunch the numbers.
When it all boils down for me I don't know how I could live without.....Both. That being said I can't remember the last time i worked wood on the bridgeport.
Pete
You can comprimise and get the cheaper mill. If you do, I would recommend the addition of a right angle quill attachment (like this ) which would allow the bridgeport to actually get into the end of a board. You also would want to make sure the bridgeport has left and right stops, and possibly the ultra-rare in and out stops- I have only seen this on my machine - it could be a homemade job, but whomever did it did it right.
I would think you could rig up a tilting table to a mill- or buy one of the aftermarket ones available.
I also think you would be able to create some hold-downs that would be fairly comparable to the Multi-router.
You will never equal the convenience and speed of the multirouter though. Especially if you take advantage of it's ability to cut using templates- whether you cut integral tenons or make your own templates for specialty projects.
Quite a debate, I know that moving the bridgeport has got to be valued at something as well. So factor that in when you crunch the numbers.
When it all boils down for me I don't know how I could live without.....Both. That being said I can't remember the last time i worked wood on the bridgeport.
Pete
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mr douglas t
- Posts: 269
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- Location: Westhampton, MA
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What a great debate. My self, being a wood worker with a bridgeport, do not use it for mortising wood. It is just too slow. Craking the handles back and forth takes too long. I am a fan of buyng an old horizontal mill and converting it into a slot mortiser. It would take a good bit of fabrication and modification, but in the end you would have a solid machine, more stale than a multi router, at a fraction of the cost. You can buy a horizontal mill for under $500.- all day long. That leaves over $2000 in the budget for fabrication time and parts to convert the mill. Good luck.
Mr D, I agree that a horizontal mill could be converted into a slot mortiser with a bit of work, and it would be pretty decent for 90deg mortises, I don't think it (or a bridgeport) would even come close to a multi router when the project is "a lot of chairs, tables with odd shaped legs and often very large hunks of wood before shaping".
The ability of the multi router to do odd angles easily and integral tenons in unmatched. For the occasional mortise I would certainly agree that you could rig the old horizontal mill, but when there are lots of mortises to be cut and lots of odd angles to be customized, you are not going to be able to beat the multi router.
Now here's a thought, the multi router is a nice machine, but in my mind it has some problems, if you're already committed to doing "a good bit of fabrication and modification" why not fabricate a superior multi-router.
My plan involves a near identical machine... except with more left and right travel, more up and down travel, and a large dust collection port in the base.
As far as stability, I have never had any issues with the multi-router.
pete
The ability of the multi router to do odd angles easily and integral tenons in unmatched. For the occasional mortise I would certainly agree that you could rig the old horizontal mill, but when there are lots of mortises to be cut and lots of odd angles to be customized, you are not going to be able to beat the multi router.
Now here's a thought, the multi router is a nice machine, but in my mind it has some problems, if you're already committed to doing "a good bit of fabrication and modification" why not fabricate a superior multi-router.
My plan involves a near identical machine... except with more left and right travel, more up and down travel, and a large dust collection port in the base.
As far as stability, I have never had any issues with the multi-router.
pete
multi router vs. bridgeport
ok, so the biggest reason i hate the multirouter is the price. being an old cast iron type, i burns me to spend more on this thing (a lot more!) than i did on my '52 northfield 16" jointer, and then buy a dedicated router for it.
but beyond that, i've got to agree with pete. i was hoping you guys would tell me otherwise, but i've not found anything with the speed and versatility of this stupid little machine. forget that base, just build a box for it to sit on, or clamp it to your benchtop. i've done tenons on the end of king size bedrails with it - six feet hanging off the end of the little table.
i agree that i'd like to see a longer throw in every direction.
this is such a simple concept - i'm amazed that no one else has made something like it. of course, that's easy to say - i suppose if i knew anything at all about machining, i might change my tune...
oh, well. i'm sick of borrowing it from friends (though not as sick as they are, i'll bet!) i guess i have to suck it up and buy the damned thing.
pete, tell me how, and i'll upload pics of the joint i need to use it for...
but beyond that, i've got to agree with pete. i was hoping you guys would tell me otherwise, but i've not found anything with the speed and versatility of this stupid little machine. forget that base, just build a box for it to sit on, or clamp it to your benchtop. i've done tenons on the end of king size bedrails with it - six feet hanging off the end of the little table.
i agree that i'd like to see a longer throw in every direction.
this is such a simple concept - i'm amazed that no one else has made something like it. of course, that's easy to say - i suppose if i knew anything at all about machining, i might change my tune...
oh, well. i'm sick of borrowing it from friends (though not as sick as they are, i'll bet!) i guess i have to suck it up and buy the damned thing.
pete, tell me how, and i'll upload pics of the joint i need to use it for...
Bucky - In order to post pictures you need to use an outside host for photos- Say on the back of your website- once the photos are hanging out there, you can link to them in two ways.
1. copy the address (URL) into your post - this will allow people to click on the URL and have it open in another window. You can get a bit fancier by following the URL code that is shown when you mouse over the URL link above your new post window- it will show you how to shorten the address to one word or a phrase.
2. Use the Img code from above your new post window to allow an image to load directly in your post.
*remember when using code, spaces are bad.*
Pete
1. copy the address (URL) into your post - this will allow people to click on the URL and have it open in another window. You can get a bit fancier by following the URL code that is shown when you mouse over the URL link above your new post window- it will show you how to shorten the address to one word or a phrase.
2. Use the Img code from above your new post window to allow an image to load directly in your post.
*remember when using code, spaces are bad.*
Pete
multi router vs. bridgeport
bucky? it's weird enough referring to you guys as nicknames. you're a bunch of dorks, and i'm totally hooked on browsing this site. kirk warned me this would be addictive.
guess the pics will have to wait - i'm in the middle of totally redoing my website, and don't have the slightest idea how to put up new pictures temporarily.
thanks for all the input - one more deposit check, and the multi router will be the next purchase...
guess the pics will have to wait - i'm in the middle of totally redoing my website, and don't have the slightest idea how to put up new pictures temporarily.
thanks for all the input - one more deposit check, and the multi router will be the next purchase...
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mystry_tour
- Posts: 357
- Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:33 pm
- Location: Greenville Tenn
multi router vs. bridgeport
ok, sorry - got sidetracked for a year or so.
i thought about getting the cheapo woodtek version, less than half the price, too.
in the end, it was my girlfriend who convinced me to buy the multi router, oddly enough. she asked me a simple question - "well, how often will you use the thing?" "um, every job."
the first job i used it on had, on each end of each rail, a pair of double haunched tenons, 7/8" thick and 1" shoulders all around and in between, all cut from a pencil mark lined up on a center line, rather than a fence alignment. try cutting those mortises in an 8" block with a little hollow chisel mortiser, or those tenons on 3 1/2" x 5" x 48" rails on the tablesaw.
i made a nice little cart with locking casters for it, it stashes in the corner and comes out quick for the joinery on every job, and even for quick stuff that i might otherwise have done with a little mortiser or by hand.
that center line scribed on the table is so simple, but i don't know what i'd do without it.
all told, i still hate how much this thing cost me, but i'm really glad i bought it. it's paid for itself, and it's mine now. i can think of a half dozen little "improvements" i'd make to it, if i had the time or inclination, but i like it the way it is, too.
i'm glad i have the thing, and i do still use it on every job.
i thought about getting the cheapo woodtek version, less than half the price, too.
in the end, it was my girlfriend who convinced me to buy the multi router, oddly enough. she asked me a simple question - "well, how often will you use the thing?" "um, every job."
the first job i used it on had, on each end of each rail, a pair of double haunched tenons, 7/8" thick and 1" shoulders all around and in between, all cut from a pencil mark lined up on a center line, rather than a fence alignment. try cutting those mortises in an 8" block with a little hollow chisel mortiser, or those tenons on 3 1/2" x 5" x 48" rails on the tablesaw.
i made a nice little cart with locking casters for it, it stashes in the corner and comes out quick for the joinery on every job, and even for quick stuff that i might otherwise have done with a little mortiser or by hand.
that center line scribed on the table is so simple, but i don't know what i'd do without it.
all told, i still hate how much this thing cost me, but i'm really glad i bought it. it's paid for itself, and it's mine now. i can think of a half dozen little "improvements" i'd make to it, if i had the time or inclination, but i like it the way it is, too.
i'm glad i have the thing, and i do still use it on every job.
I have to say that I have never owned one but have used one a long time ago. My biggest problem is the quirk of bits being exactly the right size. A .5" bit is not exactly .5" and if it was would not be after sharpening. So if your working to +0 / - .007 there can be a problem. I'm sure there is a time involved setup change that can take care of this but it's time. Did use a CNC mortise & tenon router once and it was nice to type in actual bit size and the machine would compensate for this. Made a round end tenon that was barely a slip fit dry and snug with glue.