I just found this site as I was looking for info online to assist a friend in his search for a Hammond Glider.
I've owned a Hammond for over 25 years as my primary table saw. I've had four of them in all, two I modified for my use and the other two I sold to friends for what I paid for them. In the mid 80s just after I got my first one, I contacted Hammond and they sent me a couple copies of original sales brochures. Printed in color on very nice quality paper. If they are of interest, I will try to scan and post them.
Since this is my primary table saw for general woodworking, I modified the arbor to accept a 10" blade. I also designed the arbor and table cutout to accept a stack dado and molding head. I recently mounted some guides to the base and built a T-square type fence. It incorporates a table extension to the right which includes a fitting to mount a router underneath, using the same fence. That has really made the saw useful and quick to adjust.
My next project will be to fashion a seal between the base and sliding table to prevent sawdust from collecting in the table bearings and increasing friction. A prototype has shown promise so when I get a spare moment, I'll make a permanent fix. As it is now, if I use the saw for ripping, sawdust infiltrates into the bearing and makes it difficult to use the sliding table until I clean it out.
I'm a real fan of the Hammond Glider and will be happy to share my experiences and provide pictures if they are useful to anyone.
Regards,
Jim
New Member with Hammond G100
Moderator: crzypete
Here are some pictures....
Below are some photos and associated explanations of many of the modifications I have made over the years to this saw.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_001.jpg A front view showing how I added a table extension to the right. The extension was a good place to use a nice piece of 2" thick beech plywood that I was given. It is very stable and provides a good place to mount a router underneath. The guide rails are sections of Uni-Strut - heavy guage rolled U-channel used in the commercial construction trade. It is straight, strong and easily adaptable for mounting. The T-square style fence is fastened in place with a cam arrangement actuated by the lever just below the fence in front.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_002.jpg View from the left side showing the brackets I made to hold the miter guide and finger device. This location puts them right at hand but out of the way. I replaced the original 3 phase motor with a single phase (1 1/2 hp, IIRC) motor and put the contactor and controls in an enclosure at the rear.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_003.jpg Rear view. The receptacle in the electircal box at very bottom of pic is simply a 220V outlet that allows me to plug in other machines to reduce cord clutter.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_004.jpg View from right showing router mount in table extension.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_005.jpg View of arbor and base cut-out to accomodate 10" blade. I made a completely new arbor, incorporating a threaded stub on the right end to accept a chuck for mortising. Fully raised, the arbor clears the table by 1 3/4" but I don't do much mortising with it. Barely visible is a thick spacer between the blade and arbor flange which is removed when using a stack dado or molding head. The green felt strip is designed to seal between the bottom of the table and the base frame to prevent dust from clogging the sliding table bearings. It helps but I need to replace it with a thicker piece to more fully fill the gap. Also for dust control, I filled the rectangular hole in the base casting below the table. The plug is simply a closely fitting piece of wood grooved for a piece of backer rod which holds it in place nicely by friction. Without this plug, I found that very fine dust would be circulated up through this hole and get in the table bearings.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_007.jpg Top view of table showing bronze insert which fills the cut-out. The cut-out was sized for my 6" stack dado and molding head.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_006.jpg View of bottom of table opening showing how the insert is screwed from beneath. The insert is oddly shaped to enable retaining as much of the table casting ribs as possible.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_013.jpg Detail of controls. The original switch was replaced with a pull-on, push off switch located in a more convenient position. The cap screw on the right side of the elevation crank is a lock to prevent movement of the elevation during use. It engages against a collar inside the casting. I also made a simple mount to store the table hold-down device out of the way.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_009.jpg A view of the wheels to make moving the machine more easy. Two sets of bearings (which act as the wheels) are mounted on a single shaft which can be rotated downward which eleveates the left part of the base by about 1/4". It can be wheeled very easily similar to a two-wheeled barrow by using the table extension rails as handles.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_010.jpg The wheels in the downward position. They are over-centered in this position and stay there until I lift the left side and swing them up by lifting on the protruding bolt with the side of my shoe. I don't move my machine often, but when I do, this is a very handy feature.
Planned future enhancements primarily involve work holding and mitering guages. I've made a few, including a fence for tennoning and finger jointing but nothing as versatile as I'd like. I am fortunate to have some basic metalworking machines they came into play only for the arbor and table insert.
Regards,
Jim
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_001.jpg A front view showing how I added a table extension to the right. The extension was a good place to use a nice piece of 2" thick beech plywood that I was given. It is very stable and provides a good place to mount a router underneath. The guide rails are sections of Uni-Strut - heavy guage rolled U-channel used in the commercial construction trade. It is straight, strong and easily adaptable for mounting. The T-square style fence is fastened in place with a cam arrangement actuated by the lever just below the fence in front.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_002.jpg View from the left side showing the brackets I made to hold the miter guide and finger device. This location puts them right at hand but out of the way. I replaced the original 3 phase motor with a single phase (1 1/2 hp, IIRC) motor and put the contactor and controls in an enclosure at the rear.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_003.jpg Rear view. The receptacle in the electircal box at very bottom of pic is simply a 220V outlet that allows me to plug in other machines to reduce cord clutter.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_004.jpg View from right showing router mount in table extension.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_005.jpg View of arbor and base cut-out to accomodate 10" blade. I made a completely new arbor, incorporating a threaded stub on the right end to accept a chuck for mortising. Fully raised, the arbor clears the table by 1 3/4" but I don't do much mortising with it. Barely visible is a thick spacer between the blade and arbor flange which is removed when using a stack dado or molding head. The green felt strip is designed to seal between the bottom of the table and the base frame to prevent dust from clogging the sliding table bearings. It helps but I need to replace it with a thicker piece to more fully fill the gap. Also for dust control, I filled the rectangular hole in the base casting below the table. The plug is simply a closely fitting piece of wood grooved for a piece of backer rod which holds it in place nicely by friction. Without this plug, I found that very fine dust would be circulated up through this hole and get in the table bearings.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_007.jpg Top view of table showing bronze insert which fills the cut-out. The cut-out was sized for my 6" stack dado and molding head.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_006.jpg View of bottom of table opening showing how the insert is screwed from beneath. The insert is oddly shaped to enable retaining as much of the table casting ribs as possible.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_013.jpg Detail of controls. The original switch was replaced with a pull-on, push off switch located in a more convenient position. The cap screw on the right side of the elevation crank is a lock to prevent movement of the elevation during use. It engages against a collar inside the casting. I also made a simple mount to store the table hold-down device out of the way.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_009.jpg A view of the wheels to make moving the machine more easy. Two sets of bearings (which act as the wheels) are mounted on a single shaft which can be rotated downward which eleveates the left part of the base by about 1/4". It can be wheeled very easily similar to a two-wheeled barrow by using the table extension rails as handles.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_010.jpg The wheels in the downward position. They are over-centered in this position and stay there until I lift the left side and swing them up by lifting on the protruding bolt with the side of my shoe. I don't move my machine often, but when I do, this is a very handy feature.
Planned future enhancements primarily involve work holding and mitering guages. I've made a few, including a fence for tennoning and finger jointing but nothing as versatile as I'd like. I am fortunate to have some basic metalworking machines they came into play only for the arbor and table insert.
Regards,
Jim
Additional pictures of arbor....
Here are three more pictures showing the arbor construction.
I turned a new arbor from scratch using some tool steel I had on hand. To preclude a lot of excess stock removal from a large bar, the inner flange was welded onto the partially completed arbor then trued up as one of the final operations. For simplicity, I used a standard 5/8" UNC left hand thread because the nut was in stock at a local machine shop.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_014.jpg This view shows the arbor with the blade removed. The large gap is where the blade would fit and the small gap shows the spacer in place of a stack dado or molding head.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_015.jpg This view shows the blade in positiion with the outer flange and nut removed. Note that the threaded portion ends underneath the outer flange so any blades in use will be on the unthreaded portioin of the arbor.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_016.jpg This view shows the nut, outer flange and inner spacer removed. The spacer is 5/8" thick, which is removed when using dados from 1/2" to 3/4" thick. I have another 3/8" spacer which I use with dado stacks from 1/4" to 1/2" thick. To ensure minimal blade runout, the contacting surface of the inner flange was dressed with a grinder after the arbor was installed in the saw. Effectively, I have zero runout in the arbor and flange so any runout or wobble at the blade tips is a result of lack of flatness or concentrictiy of the blade.
Fully raised, I get a maximum of 3" depth of cut. With a bit of work, that could be increased by about 1/4" by relieving the underside of the sliding table where the arbor flange makes contact.
I've been very happy with the result. It has sawn thousands of feet of wood from heavy planking to fine cross cuts. Since I also do a lot of metalworking, it has been pressed into cutting a lot of nonferrous metal, from thin aluminum up to 2" thick hard bronze.
Jim
I turned a new arbor from scratch using some tool steel I had on hand. To preclude a lot of excess stock removal from a large bar, the inner flange was welded onto the partially completed arbor then trued up as one of the final operations. For simplicity, I used a standard 5/8" UNC left hand thread because the nut was in stock at a local machine shop.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_014.jpg This view shows the arbor with the blade removed. The large gap is where the blade would fit and the small gap shows the spacer in place of a stack dado or molding head.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_015.jpg This view shows the blade in positiion with the outer flange and nut removed. Note that the threaded portion ends underneath the outer flange so any blades in use will be on the unthreaded portioin of the arbor.
http://metalworking.com/dropbox/hammond ... 00_016.jpg This view shows the nut, outer flange and inner spacer removed. The spacer is 5/8" thick, which is removed when using dados from 1/2" to 3/4" thick. I have another 3/8" spacer which I use with dado stacks from 1/4" to 1/2" thick. To ensure minimal blade runout, the contacting surface of the inner flange was dressed with a grinder after the arbor was installed in the saw. Effectively, I have zero runout in the arbor and flange so any runout or wobble at the blade tips is a result of lack of flatness or concentrictiy of the blade.
Fully raised, I get a maximum of 3" depth of cut. With a bit of work, that could be increased by about 1/4" by relieving the underside of the sliding table where the arbor flange makes contact.
I've been very happy with the result. It has sawn thousands of feet of wood from heavy planking to fine cross cuts. Since I also do a lot of metalworking, it has been pressed into cutting a lot of nonferrous metal, from thin aluminum up to 2" thick hard bronze.
Jim
Pete,
I make the blade changes with the arbor raised as far as it will go. There is an adjustable stop collar on the raising screw and I don't recall whether I had to adjust it to allow raising high enough. Getting a 10" blade in and out is tight but not problematic. Next time I'm in the shop I'll measure how far the arbor shaft is above the table level in the fully raised position.
Jim
I make the blade changes with the arbor raised as far as it will go. There is an adjustable stop collar on the raising screw and I don't recall whether I had to adjust it to allow raising high enough. Getting a 10" blade in and out is tight but not problematic. Next time I'm in the shop I'll measure how far the arbor shaft is above the table level in the fully raised position.
Jim