petes shop plans

mr douglas t · Post by **mr douglas t** » Tue Feb 06, 2007 9:49 am

I thought I would start a discussion on Petes shop. I know we all have our opinions, so lets hear them. Some thing to consider when designing the shop. Sink/water location, dust collecion method/ floor or ceiling, garage door placement and "Drive in bay" (is it deep enough to pull a car or truck into?) Windows and door placement? (I wish my office door was 8" to the right than long rips off the table saw could pass into the office) INterior finish. (I had the dry waller paint the interior. He used cheap paint with out any mold inhibitor, and now mold is growing where saw dust collects on the wall.)
I know there is more thoughts out there...

nektai · Post by **nektai** » Tue Feb 06, 2007 11:36 am

I have had mold issues in the past but it never occurred to me to spec paint with a mold inhibitor...Great idea as my new shop will be more susceptible to heat and possibly humidity that the old one.

Nico

mystry_tour · Post by **mystry_tour** » Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:21 pm

Now I don't know how much money Pete is willing to spend, but i wish I had put radient heat in the concrete floor of my shop. Even insulation is not good enough to keep the floor warm. It is hard to keep a shop warm when the floor stays cold. If not at least , whick I will soon, put insulatinon on the concrete floor and put a hardwood flooring over that.
Doors. At leats 10ft high doors to get bigger machines in. Those 36" BS are at a highth of about 8-10 ft.
Windows. I put all my windows and doors so I can see them from the house. That way no one can sneek in a window or door on the back side
Reg

crzypete · Post by **crzypete** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 11:27 pm

I definitely am planning on radiant floor heat and I like the mold resistant paint thoughts. Nico is working on studio plans as well, so this thread is doubly pertinent.

I will post a floorplan soon. keep the ideas and thoughts coming.

pete

mystry_tour · Post by **mystry_tour** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 9:23 pm

Would be nice to have insulated windows high, along the top of the walls insted of lower, to let natural light in. Would vut dwon on the lighting during the day.

guzziguy · Post by **guzziguy** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 8:13 am

OK I have of one suggestion. An open area in the shop maybe 20'x25' or a bit smaller. This area should have no permanent machines, cabinets or workbenches in it , but can be used as a space for assembly, carts, setting up and /or building a show booth.
As a person who does craft/trade/art shows I find it extremely important to be able to set up my booth with all the work in place before hand.

nektai · Post by **nektai** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 9:33 am

I will have the luxury of my old shop for storage, photography and gallery space. That said I am in the process of laying out my machines so that I will have a larger assembly area. I like the way you think but 20' x 25' seems unlikely so I will settle for every square inch I can find.

crzypete · Post by **crzypete** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 9:50 am

Joel, the one thing I have learned quickly, is that space disappears fast. The new studio will be 32 x 56 feet. This would be adequate if not for my metalworking habit. The space required for the metalshop would make a great gallery/ booth set-up area. Unfortunately compromises are being made. My one advantage over Nico's situation is the allowance for future expansion. I believe I will be able to get town approval in the future as my needs and budget become greater.

Pete

crzypete · Post by **crzypete** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 10:18 am

Another thing I have been debating is Table saws- not just whether they go against the wall or not.

Currently I own a Unisaw and a Powermatic 66. The unisaw is coupled with a Delta heavy duty shaper as one unit sharing the biesmeyer fence. The Powermatic is freestanding. It has always been my dream to add a bigger saw- aka a Tannewitz or Oliver 270. I am hesitant to lose the left tilt capability of the 66, and I am wary of breaking up my unisaw/ shaper combo. I do not think I need three saws (other than the three hammonds which compliment these guys.) I am wary about dedicating that much space to a third saw anyway.

Currently the 66 is mainly my rip saw. The Unisaw is a variety saw used to cut plywood, cut aluminum, and often run my dado stack. Most of my boats fit the unisaw, although there is good reason that many of them could be reworked.

Who leaves the shop?

Pete

mr douglas t · Post by **mr douglas t** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 8:41 pm

Nobody leaves the shop. A big saw does not have to eat up space. If you keep the right hand exstention table small, or remove it completelt, and keep the fence capacity to around 24" the saw will take up very little space. Who needs a ripping saw with a 52" besimer? But id you must get rid of a saw, the delta must go. The 66 is by far a better saw. Just crank the blade up on each machine once to clearly see a differnceNext question is, how often do you use the shaper? My shaper is on the pallet rack for the ocasional use. Why have a machine that you rarely use take up floor space...

A side note on big saw.. They are a must have item. cutting 16/4 wood in one pass is essential. Also dont skimp on horsepower.. Who wants a big saw that slows down. I just upgraded to a direct drive 10 hp XJ Tanny. It is the best. Have not been able to slow it down yet.

crzypete · Post by **crzypete** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:05 am

I actually use my shaper quite a bit. Not because it is a shaper, but because it is a sweet router table. I have to admit, it would be nice to have an extra saw. As it is I do spend quite a bit of time changing blades. I do not believe in combo blades and I am very specific about cutting aluminum with non-ferrous blades. Perhaps the unisaw or 66 becomes a dedicated aluminum cutting machine.

As to 16/4 wood? what do you use that for?

I don't actually use it for my work. I haven't stalled out my 3hp powermatic in years.

Joels dream of large open spaces and Dougs desire to own two of every machine on the planet are definitely forces that are tearing at me. I sure that they are both correct and that 1792 square feet can't house either of them, much less both.......

Pete

mystry_tour · Post by **mystry_tour** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:47 am

16/4 is for table legs. The 232-d I have will be set up to do dados and tenones. The 270 will be now the saw for the thicker stuff for ripping and sheet goods since it has an extention table.
tour

dadude · Post by **dadude** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 9:03 am

Joels dream of large open spaces and Dougs desire to own two of every machine on the planet are definitely forces that are tearing at me. I sure that they are both correct and that 1792 square feet can't house either of them, much less both.......

open area in shop is of great use if you can accomadate with machine layout (good suggestion rastro) I have built my work tables at (H) slightly lower than machine table and on lockable casters to be able to clear area for multi use

at this point (2) shapers, (2) jointers, (2) hammonds, (2) tenoners, (2) table saws and (2) sons, not every machine on planet but feel kinship with douglas T