Table Saw Boat
Moderator: crzypete
Table Saw Boat
Everybody's got 'em. What is the best method for lining up the runners with the miter guage slots. The boat is new and the runners haven't been put on yet. I know after they're on, checking for square on the piece you've cut is the way to fine tune it, but I'd like to get as close as possible on the initial setup.
Steve,
I like to clamp a board onto the saws table that is square to the mitre slots and as close to the front of the saw as possible.
Next I put an 1/8" shim in the mitre slots. I then put the runners in the slots with double stick tape applied to the top surface (the shims were necessary to get the taped runners above the saw).
Now I place two more shims on the table so that i can position the boat without making contact with the taped runners. I might even clamp the boat to the board that is clamped to the saw in step 1.
slip out the shims and press the boat onto the runners. I find it is helpful to unclamp everything, remove all shims and carefully push the boat forwards and back a few times. If you do this last step there will be almost no need to fiddle after you screw them in place.
I like that UHMV plastic for runners on most boats but don't use screws with tapered heads as they will mushroom the runner when tightened.
Hope this helps
I like to clamp a board onto the saws table that is square to the mitre slots and as close to the front of the saw as possible.
Next I put an 1/8" shim in the mitre slots. I then put the runners in the slots with double stick tape applied to the top surface (the shims were necessary to get the taped runners above the saw).
Now I place two more shims on the table so that i can position the boat without making contact with the taped runners. I might even clamp the boat to the board that is clamped to the saw in step 1.
slip out the shims and press the boat onto the runners. I find it is helpful to unclamp everything, remove all shims and carefully push the boat forwards and back a few times. If you do this last step there will be almost no need to fiddle after you screw them in place.
I like that UHMV plastic for runners on most boats but don't use screws with tapered heads as they will mushroom the runner when tightened.
Hope this helps
Thanks Nico
That sounds like it'll work.
I have to make a box with mitered joints out of 2" thick material, so I need the joints to be balls on. Being square is half of the equation with the other half being 45 degrees. To get the 45, I've ordered a Beall Tilt Box. Hopefully this will get me there. I'll let you know how the Tilt Box works. I was going to get a Wixey but I found a forum where this guy compared the two and for him the Tilt Box just edged out the Wixey. Here's the link for those interested:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=57944
That sounds like it'll work.
I have to make a box with mitered joints out of 2" thick material, so I need the joints to be balls on. Being square is half of the equation with the other half being 45 degrees. To get the 45, I've ordered a Beall Tilt Box. Hopefully this will get me there. I'll let you know how the Tilt Box works. I was going to get a Wixey but I found a forum where this guy compared the two and for him the Tilt Box just edged out the Wixey. Here's the link for those interested:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=57944
I use the almost identical method to Nico, and concur that the slide back and forth is very important.
Neat device. I would be tempted to use a wide machinist's parallel on top of the table saw when you are doing the initial calibration- This would take into account the top not being perfectly flat.
I look forward to the report on the tilt gage. For $40, I am definitely interested.
Pete
Neat device. I would be tempted to use a wide machinist's parallel on top of the table saw when you are doing the initial calibration- This would take into account the top not being perfectly flat.
I look forward to the report on the tilt gage. For $40, I am definitely interested.
Pete