Honestly I didn't worry about that too much. I wanted it to be pretty damn close in that regard- certainly close enough that the pointer on the fingerscale could be adjusted accurately, but to me that was good enough.
I suspect an easy way to have done this would have been to use a ruler to mark a line- say the 6" distance from the blade while the unit was on the saw. Then you could align to that line when drilling the first hole for the mounting.
BTW I drilled, over-drilled and screwed that first hole before I attempted anymore to make sure it all didn't slip.
How did you align you adhesive strip?
Pete
Franken-Hammond: Changing the ruler
Moderator: crzypete
It is a slightly different process but it could be adapted to the new hard ruler.
First I set the finger to a 2" cut and being a fool I used a dial caliper to get is spot on. Then I slipped the peel and stick ruler under the finger scale and lined up the 2" mark to the pointer on the finger scale. Then I Stuck the 1 1/2" to the right of the finger. I pulled the screws and stuck the rest.
I like your idea of the mark but I might even like to have the rule floating in there and tape it in place with masking tape once positioned. Then the finger could be removed and the ruler hinged out of the way. Then it could be drilled as you specified in your earlier post.
This would satisfy my obsession with ruler alignment.
First I set the finger to a 2" cut and being a fool I used a dial caliper to get is spot on. Then I slipped the peel and stick ruler under the finger scale and lined up the 2" mark to the pointer on the finger scale. Then I Stuck the 1 1/2" to the right of the finger. I pulled the screws and stuck the rest.
I like your idea of the mark but I might even like to have the rule floating in there and tape it in place with masking tape once positioned. Then the finger could be removed and the ruler hinged out of the way. Then it could be drilled as you specified in your earlier post.
This would satisfy my obsession with ruler alignment.
cutting the ruler?
Pete, please tell us more about how you cut such a clean edge on the new rulers for the Hammond. thanks!
Stewart the Ruler is table sawn on my unisaw with a dedicated aluminum cutting blade. I use a wax type lubricant and prefer to end with a skim cut rather than a cutting the end thickness in one pass.
Also, I skim off of the front as well as cutting the back to width. I do this because the numbers would get cut slightly if I were to simply take from one side.
The corners are then cleaned up with a file, but you could use sandpaper. They should feel smooth and not sharp. It is especially important to ease the corner that fits into the fingerscale as you do not want it to not fit all the way in.
Also, I'd like to note that I have become as obsessive as Nektai about ruler alignment. I do use the ruler without the fingerscale and having it perfectly aligned to the blade is important.
Pete
Also, I skim off of the front as well as cutting the back to width. I do this because the numbers would get cut slightly if I were to simply take from one side.
The corners are then cleaned up with a file, but you could use sandpaper. They should feel smooth and not sharp. It is especially important to ease the corner that fits into the fingerscale as you do not want it to not fit all the way in.
Also, I'd like to note that I have become as obsessive as Nektai about ruler alignment. I do use the ruler without the fingerscale and having it perfectly aligned to the blade is important.
Pete