I have a G100 SN#13385 with Howell 1 hp motor 51J1 61315
currently wired for 120v -
I'm pretty sure it is fairly easy, disconnect either the white or yellow (at the motor) and also disconnect either the blue, green or maybe black and connect it directly to whichever of the yellow/white. This is to connect the two motor windings in series rather than in parallel as it is now for 120v.
Maybe somebody out there either knows or can trace the wiring in an existing 240 v setup.
I don't have a website to post an image to, but in brief, the yellow/white pair trace back thru the switch to one side of the line in voltage "black" and the black/blue/green leads are connected in the motor and trace back to the other side of the line in "white". The other connections are to the start-up condenser (red on the motor side, and I think black, but maybe green on the hot side-those two would be switched to reverse the rotation)
thanks for your help
January[/img]
How to change from 120v to 240v ? (single ph - G100)
Moderator: crzypete
OK, I'm gonna answer my own question.
After much futile searching on the web (I thought you could find everything...not!) I dug out my ohm meter and found the three sets of windings were red/black with inline capacitor is the startup winding, blue/yellow is winding A and green/white is winding B.
I needed to get the main windings in series rather than parallel, and I needed to get it so there was only 120v across the startup winding, so one end of it had to go to the junction between winding A and B (since that is the only place on the schematic that you get 120.)
So I hooked up black and blue to line input 1, connected green, yellow and the capacitor lead together, and the white to line input 2.
Works fine.
Soon (I hope) I'll get an account at a photo sharing site and post photos of the wiring diagrams and my particular motor etc.
Why do it? well having the current from 14.8 amps to 7.4 I think means it will run cooler and will have less impact on other electrical devices running in the shop, which is wired for 240 anyway.
Life is good.
cheers
january
After much futile searching on the web (I thought you could find everything...not!) I dug out my ohm meter and found the three sets of windings were red/black with inline capacitor is the startup winding, blue/yellow is winding A and green/white is winding B.
I needed to get the main windings in series rather than parallel, and I needed to get it so there was only 120v across the startup winding, so one end of it had to go to the junction between winding A and B (since that is the only place on the schematic that you get 120.)
So I hooked up black and blue to line input 1, connected green, yellow and the capacitor lead together, and the white to line input 2.
Works fine.
Soon (I hope) I'll get an account at a photo sharing site and post photos of the wiring diagrams and my particular motor etc.
Why do it? well having the current from 14.8 amps to 7.4 I think means it will run cooler and will have less impact on other electrical devices running in the shop, which is wired for 240 anyway.
Life is good.
cheers
january
