OK, Part 2.
Back to the lathe. As stated before I am turning between centers, this gives excellent repeatability when swapping the part end for end and makes turning threads easier because you can remove the part from the lathe to check your threads without loosing your reference to the leadscrew. The part is driven by what is called a dog- a clamp with a leg to drive it. Here I am about to start turning the body of the arbor.
The body and bearing surfaces of the shaft turned, I cut the 20tpi thread which will be on the right side when finished. It is a standard right handed thread.
Here is the part so far. The more polished areas are the bearing surfaces. The dog is removed so I can flip it end for end and work on the blade side.
Just to be certain that everything is happy I indicate the shaft after it has been flipped
Now I turn the flange which I had previously welded on.
The thread on this side is left handed 5/8-11. It is cut with the carriage moving away from the headstock- the opposite way of cutting a right handed thread. The nut is a stock nut.
Unfortunately some photos are missing from the next couple of steps. I turned the weld to tidy it up and the back of the flange. I assembled the nut and floating flange onto the arbor and turned the outside diameter and the cut the outside face of the flange.
At this point I put the chuck back on and using a spider- the wood and a Dial test indicator I trued up the disk using the surface that I had just cut while it was assembled. The outside face is then trued.
Next is a trip to the mill to add a keyway for the pulley.
Finally Done! Note the cleaned up weld which I forgot to take a picture of the turning of. Not bad!
I have been running it and already happy with the performance. I feel it is more stable than the faceplate and will be a great addition once my new bigger blade shows up from Forrest.
That's all for now.
Pete
