ailing hammond saw

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johndodd
Posts: 47
Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2005 8:32 pm

ailing hammond saw

Post by johndodd »

the flange with the 3 holes for the blade and the flange behind it
that holds 3 knives seems to be out of whack, worn, beat up.

I think that is the problem with the blade not spinning parallel to the
sliding table.

I pulled draw bar out...do I tap it or is it threaded? I don't want to do
more damage. do you know how to remove these 2 parts?


thanks! JOhn
crzypete
Posts: 1691
Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 10:45 am
Location: New York State
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Post by crzypete »

There are two flanges- te one that the blade attaches to, and the one behind.

the one the blade attaches to, is held on by the drawbar, it should come off after the drawbar is removed, the other flange is integral to the bearing assembly, I'll try to post a scan of the manual today.

also check out the pics of Mike Henry's disassembly of his glider, you can click on the thumbnails to see larger pics.

http://member.newsguy.com/~mphenry/hamm ... -o-saw.htm

Pete
Mike Henry
Posts: 49
Joined: Wed May 25, 2005 2:14 am
Location: Chicago area

Post by Mike Henry »

What Pete said. The pictures on my site are for a Hammond G4B and other Hammond saws may differ.

I recently dimensioned the saw head and created a drawing for it if you want to try and make your own. My saw head has a 0.810" boss for the central hole that aligns the blade and a 1.000" boss on the opposite side to align it to the flange on the arbor. The 3 countersunk holes are tapped 8-32 at a 1.025" radius. I've heard that the dimensions may have differed from model to model or maybe even S/N to S/N.

Email me for a copy in PDF format.

Too bad I didn't think to dimension the arbor as well when it was apart.

Mike
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