SCM Invincible Shaper
Moderator: crzypete
SCM Invincible Shaper
Junkies,
I have just returned with a new machine in desperate need of help. My heavy duty delta shaper has not been able to keep up so I was open to the notion of an upgrade. Crazypete pointed this one out on ebay and i won it for $253 which was my maximum bid to the dollar. I take this to be a good omen but there will be much work needed before this machine runs again.
Here it is
the insides
Now for the problems
The magnetic starter is missing and i am not sure I want to know what that thing in the lower left is
The fence dovetails are cracked
And the motor mount is cracked
Crap. That allot of stuff.
I have just returned with a new machine in desperate need of help. My heavy duty delta shaper has not been able to keep up so I was open to the notion of an upgrade. Crazypete pointed this one out on ebay and i won it for $253 which was my maximum bid to the dollar. I take this to be a good omen but there will be much work needed before this machine runs again.
Here it is
the insides
Now for the problems
The magnetic starter is missing and i am not sure I want to know what that thing in the lower left is
The fence dovetails are cracked
And the motor mount is cracked
Crap. That allot of stuff.
Last edited by nektai on Mon Jan 19, 2009 2:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Posts: 357
- Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:33 pm
- Location: Greenville Tenn
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- Posts: 357
- Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:33 pm
- Location: Greenville Tenn
Nico, Glad you got it home safely. Looks like it needs some work, but will be one hell of a machine when the issues are solved.
I do not believe you are a major fence user, so I would instantly put that aside to work on another day.
The motor is going to need a quick braze. A slight issue, but once you find the right shop, it will be easy and it is a pretty non critical spot. Hopefully the two back ones are ok as well.
The switch might be a bit more of an issue. I am assuming that it is a two speed motor- if so, the switch might be more complicated than simply tossing any surplus magnetic switch on. We need more information, especially from the motor plate.......
......Leading into, have you looked at the motor plate yet? I am hoping the motor is 220v and am curious as to whether it is one or two speed.
Also, hopefully those bearings are good- always a fear with shapers.
congrats,
Pete
I do not believe you are a major fence user, so I would instantly put that aside to work on another day.
The motor is going to need a quick braze. A slight issue, but once you find the right shop, it will be easy and it is a pretty non critical spot. Hopefully the two back ones are ok as well.
The switch might be a bit more of an issue. I am assuming that it is a two speed motor- if so, the switch might be more complicated than simply tossing any surplus magnetic switch on. We need more information, especially from the motor plate.......
......Leading into, have you looked at the motor plate yet? I am hoping the motor is 220v and am curious as to whether it is one or two speed.
Also, hopefully those bearings are good- always a fear with shapers.
congrats,
Pete
I am planning on yanking the motor tomorrow. Hopefully that will set me on my way to figuring out what sort of starter i will need. I have some ideas about places that can braze the motor mount but that is a discussion for after the motor is removed.
The fence goes away for now. The broken parts would be quite easy to make if I ever need the fence. As you know i bought this machine to pattern shape so it will not be missed.
The fence goes away for now. The broken parts would be quite easy to make if I ever need the fence. As you know i bought this machine to pattern shape so it will not be missed.
Nico,
That's a nice shaper. I'm surprised to see the fence with it. Did you get the fence rails? That block at the bottom of the cabinet is standard on all the SCMI shapers. It's just a point for hard wiring. It would normally have a plastic cover over it. That's a single speed motor. The switch is for forward and reverse. As for the repairs, I'd weld the motor mount (or braze as Pete suggested). I had a similar break on a Whitney shaper and got a good result using my wire welder. As for the dovetails on the fence, I'd have them cast and then cut the dovetails on the mill. Those are always broken. The fence faces are so heavy that they should be removed before lifting the fence. Of course, that never happens and you know the result. The bearings for this machine a very expensive. This machine was made when they were still using 7's. I believe that the set would run ~$300. Compare that to my T110 made in the 90's... I recently replaced those bearings at a total cost of $115.
I've owned the 100, 110 and a 120. They were all excellent machines.
-Arthur Fuege
Somerset, New Jersey
That's a nice shaper. I'm surprised to see the fence with it. Did you get the fence rails? That block at the bottom of the cabinet is standard on all the SCMI shapers. It's just a point for hard wiring. It would normally have a plastic cover over it. That's a single speed motor. The switch is for forward and reverse. As for the repairs, I'd weld the motor mount (or braze as Pete suggested). I had a similar break on a Whitney shaper and got a good result using my wire welder. As for the dovetails on the fence, I'd have them cast and then cut the dovetails on the mill. Those are always broken. The fence faces are so heavy that they should be removed before lifting the fence. Of course, that never happens and you know the result. The bearings for this machine a very expensive. This machine was made when they were still using 7's. I believe that the set would run ~$300. Compare that to my T110 made in the 90's... I recently replaced those bearings at a total cost of $115.
I've owned the 100, 110 and a 120. They were all excellent machines.
-Arthur Fuege
Somerset, New Jersey
Arthur-
I am very relieved to know that there is a junkie out there with specific knowledge of this machine. I am sure that i am missing the fence rails as I photographed all that i have.
I am now quite convinced that this is the same machine that I used at RIT which means that I have partial knowledge clouded by my deteriorating memory.
For example I remember a wrench that was made from a pipe that was used to remove the spindle. If memory serves it spun on left hand threads. Does this sound remotely correct?
OK now to the days pictures
The motor plate. I think it is a two speed motor but my italian sucks
Here is the shot of the arbor that i want to make a tool to remove
The broken mount which I intend to fab from steel or aluminum if it is too delicate to braze (open to suggestions)
Arthur solved the mystery of the block at the bottom of the saw but if this switch is to change speeds then I suppose I am missing the reversing switch? If it is the reversing switch then shouldn't i find a way to take advantage of the two speed motor? I suppose the next step is to open it up and see what is going on in there.
I am very relieved to know that there is a junkie out there with specific knowledge of this machine. I am sure that i am missing the fence rails as I photographed all that i have.
I am now quite convinced that this is the same machine that I used at RIT which means that I have partial knowledge clouded by my deteriorating memory.
For example I remember a wrench that was made from a pipe that was used to remove the spindle. If memory serves it spun on left hand threads. Does this sound remotely correct?
OK now to the days pictures
The motor plate. I think it is a two speed motor but my italian sucks
Here is the shot of the arbor that i want to make a tool to remove
The broken mount which I intend to fab from steel or aluminum if it is too delicate to braze (open to suggestions)
Arthur solved the mystery of the block at the bottom of the saw but if this switch is to change speeds then I suppose I am missing the reversing switch? If it is the reversing switch then shouldn't i find a way to take advantage of the two speed motor? I suppose the next step is to open it up and see what is going on in there.
Nico,
You jogged my memory. That is a two speed motor, and the switch is to change speeds. The starter box had a third button for reverse. The spindle wrench is a cylinder about 10" long with a bar through it. I have it somewhere. You can definitely braze that mount back together. If you really want to get into it, you can have that piece cast. It'd probably cost about $35 from cattail.
-Arthur Fuege
Somerset, New Jersey
You jogged my memory. That is a two speed motor, and the switch is to change speeds. The starter box had a third button for reverse. The spindle wrench is a cylinder about 10" long with a bar through it. I have it somewhere. You can definitely braze that mount back together. If you really want to get into it, you can have that piece cast. It'd probably cost about $35 from cattail.
-Arthur Fuege
Somerset, New Jersey
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- Posts: 357
- Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:33 pm
- Location: Greenville Tenn
Nico, Have you contacted SCM to see what is available literature-wise. A wiring diagram would definitely be helpful.
I have a few questions.
Is the speed selector wired directly to the motor? This would be very advantages as it would put it past the switch and allow you to use a standard switch and wire it very easily.
What diameter is the spindle?
Do you have more table reducing rings? how small can you reduce to?
I would be tempted to clean up the top. It would be a very fast way of making it look much better.
Pete
I have a few questions.
Is the speed selector wired directly to the motor? This would be very advantages as it would put it past the switch and allow you to use a standard switch and wire it very easily.
What diameter is the spindle?
Do you have more table reducing rings? how small can you reduce to?
I would be tempted to clean up the top. It would be a very fast way of making it look much better.
Pete
I have had no luck finding info on the shaper from SCM or anyone else.
The motor is connected to the speed selector switch and the wiring is intact and factory done. The switch then sends three wires and a ground to the void where the magnetic starter belongs. This leads up to my plan.
I have a Nema 1 starter with a 110v coil that i think will work for this machine. Here is a question about sizing the heaters. According to the motors plate the motor will draw 15.2 amps on high and 11.5 amps on low. The Square D info would suggest the following.. B28.0 heater with a range of 14.2-15.9amps. This does not seem like a great match for the low speed. Is there another way? Perhaps a different sort of switch?
The final part of my plan involves a reversing switch set up between the magnetic switch and the speed selector.
Crzy- The included spindle is a 1" and there are no other table reducing rings. A small dinner plate would fall through if carelessly placed so I will have to make a temp when it gets close to go time.
The motor is connected to the speed selector switch and the wiring is intact and factory done. The switch then sends three wires and a ground to the void where the magnetic starter belongs. This leads up to my plan.
I have a Nema 1 starter with a 110v coil that i think will work for this machine. Here is a question about sizing the heaters. According to the motors plate the motor will draw 15.2 amps on high and 11.5 amps on low. The Square D info would suggest the following.. B28.0 heater with a range of 14.2-15.9amps. This does not seem like a great match for the low speed. Is there another way? Perhaps a different sort of switch?
The final part of my plan involves a reversing switch set up between the magnetic switch and the speed selector.
Crzy- The included spindle is a 1" and there are no other table reducing rings. A small dinner plate would fall through if carelessly placed so I will have to make a temp when it gets close to go time.
Nico,
I found some old photos of my T100. Don't know if they'll help, but here they are:
Reg, Here's the contact info for Cattail Foundry:
Emanuel King 167 West Cattail Road Gordonville, PA 17529
They are Amish, so you won't be able to call them. I usually drop my parts off in person. If you have something you want cast, just send the old part or the pattern. It can take 4 to 6 weeks to get the new part back. I'd also be glad to drop parts off for you.
_________________
Arthur Fuege
Somerset, New Jersey
I found some old photos of my T100. Don't know if they'll help, but here they are:
Reg, Here's the contact info for Cattail Foundry:
Emanuel King 167 West Cattail Road Gordonville, PA 17529
They are Amish, so you won't be able to call them. I usually drop my parts off in person. If you have something you want cast, just send the old part or the pattern. It can take 4 to 6 weeks to get the new part back. I'd also be glad to drop parts off for you.
_________________
Arthur Fuege
Somerset, New Jersey
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- Posts: 357
- Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:33 pm
- Location: Greenville Tenn
nektai,
indeed you've taken on a "project"! i will photograph my spindle tool, fence and a spindle to help you (my Brazilain Delta RS shaper is identical to SCM shapers) actually I have and extra fence (came from brooderhaus (sp?) where we purchased crowns with crzy) perhaps dovetail parts will interchange with yours, they look identical.
in NYC working on site and will return home this weekend, look for pics and more info, i do not believe you can reverse this machine due to spindle lock design, but this can be found out easily.
best,
dd
indeed you've taken on a "project"! i will photograph my spindle tool, fence and a spindle to help you (my Brazilain Delta RS shaper is identical to SCM shapers) actually I have and extra fence (came from brooderhaus (sp?) where we purchased crowns with crzy) perhaps dovetail parts will interchange with yours, they look identical.
in NYC working on site and will return home this weekend, look for pics and more info, i do not believe you can reverse this machine due to spindle lock design, but this can be found out easily.
best,
dd
Dadude those pictures will be very welcome. I am putting the shaper on the back burner for a few days as i wait for a reversing drum switch and the correct heaters for the starter.
When I get back to it I would like to start with the spindle removal tool. Is that sucker reverse threaded?
Thanks for the offer of the fence parts. I am not sure that i need them as i can make the broken parts pretty easily. The offer of photos of a working complete fence will be very very helpful.
thanks to all for the help
Nektai
When I get back to it I would like to start with the spindle removal tool. Is that sucker reverse threaded?
Thanks for the offer of the fence parts. I am not sure that i need them as i can make the broken parts pretty easily. The offer of photos of a working complete fence will be very very helpful.
thanks to all for the help
Nektai
nektai,
yes i was having trouble getting the pic to post and aked crzy to fwd, obviously site recognized img code. hope this helps, reverse thread? thread would be reverse of rotation into stub (machine) spindle and locknut reverse of that to spindle, am i making sense?
skied with a fellow from your area this past friday, he is an artist and knows darius? brother? father? he presently is doing oversize paintings in a studio near sag harbor, name is charles, any idea whom?
yes i was having trouble getting the pic to post and aked crzy to fwd, obviously site recognized img code. hope this helps, reverse thread? thread would be reverse of rotation into stub (machine) spindle and locknut reverse of that to spindle, am i making sense?
skied with a fellow from your area this past friday, he is an artist and knows darius? brother? father? he presently is doing oversize paintings in a studio near sag harbor, name is charles, any idea whom?