Crzypete's new Studio
Moderator: crzypete
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- Posts: 63
- Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 8:22 am
- Location: Denali, Alaska
nice seeing the inside come together! What will your interior walls be- rock? We are hanging 3/4" MDO in our staff and bathroom areas on the new project- has a very smooth side that in our case we can wall paper directly onto, but in your case I was thinking it might make a nice paintable surface, that wouldn't be prone to the dings that rock can get, especially in a shop. BTW, we are using fiberglass-laminated plywood in our kitchen, that has a class A fire rating and should be practically able to be hosed down- and not bad looking either- it's called FRP, but there have been major delays in sourcing it from the builder's supply. Not sure I'd recomment it to you, but an interesting material. One advantage to any of these might be hanging it yourself without all the hassle of mudding, or expense of jobbing it out.
Congratulations on the considerable progress. I am jealous of your tool chest...
Congratulations on the considerable progress. I am jealous of your tool chest...
Yup, MDO stands for Mediuum Density Overlay , just like MDF- medium density fiberboard and Nico has the description of the product correct. I am curious whether they just let the seams show or have a special technique.
I will be sheetrocking the building, in fact I won't be sheetrocking, someone else will, which is just fine by me. I am using an insulation subcontractor as well.
Pete
I will be sheetrocking the building, in fact I won't be sheetrocking, someone else will, which is just fine by me. I am using an insulation subcontractor as well.
Pete
The last few days have been spent pulling electric. I believe I am close to completion with the rough in.
Here is a the only photo I took, It is midday yesterday. The box is fed through the upper left hand corner. Since it is a surface mounted box and I wanted a clean look, I followed nektai's electrician's lead. The 2" conduit at the top of the panel goes to a big junction box in the trusses. All of the wire is pulled to that box, stripped and fed down the conduit into the panel
I believe I am scheduled for a framing inspection tomorrow, I have my fingers crossed.
Here is a the only photo I took, It is midday yesterday. The box is fed through the upper left hand corner. Since it is a surface mounted box and I wanted a clean look, I followed nektai's electrician's lead. The 2" conduit at the top of the panel goes to a big junction box in the trusses. All of the wire is pulled to that box, stripped and fed down the conduit into the panel
I believe I am scheduled for a framing inspection tomorrow, I have my fingers crossed.
Last edited by crzypete on Wed Oct 03, 2007 11:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I forgot to add the story of my new drill.
On my first day of electric I realized my drills were not up to the task of drilling for all of the wires. I needed the correct tool. I went to the hardware store tonight to suck it up and buy the right angle milwaukee. At the moment of dropping $250 at the register my luck turned- the guy behind the counter said "I have one of those"..... "in fact I never use it." he offered me his used one for $100 cash- I met him there the next morning and saved $150. Best of all has the older metal case rather than the new crappy plastic ones.
The drill has made the job possible- easily paid for itself. The only downside is it has an older style reverse switch which is not as convenient, totally worth the money saved.
Pete
On my first day of electric I realized my drills were not up to the task of drilling for all of the wires. I needed the correct tool. I went to the hardware store tonight to suck it up and buy the right angle milwaukee. At the moment of dropping $250 at the register my luck turned- the guy behind the counter said "I have one of those"..... "in fact I never use it." he offered me his used one for $100 cash- I met him there the next morning and saved $150. Best of all has the older metal case rather than the new crappy plastic ones.
The drill has made the job possible- easily paid for itself. The only downside is it has an older style reverse switch which is not as convenient, totally worth the money saved.
Pete
Work is almost complete on the electric. I have pulled all the wires and am almost done connecting everything. It should be wrapped tomorrow. I have not been doing a good job documenting the progress with photos, I keep working until it is too dark to take photos. Here is a picture of the main panel at the end of the day today. It is shot with the camera flash and a floodlight.
Pete
Pete
I am desperately hoping the building inspector comes today, but my gut tells me saturday.
Once he has been, I will call the insulator. I should probably do some plumbing- for a garden hose and the loft heat prior to insulating, but I do not think it will mesh with my schedule, so that is that, I will work around it a bit later.
Pete
Once he has been, I will call the insulator. I should probably do some plumbing- for a garden hose and the loft heat prior to insulating, but I do not think it will mesh with my schedule, so that is that, I will work around it a bit later.
Pete
Hey Pete,
A couple of questions:
I assume the junction box upstairs is because you're running more than one machine per breaker. Makes sense money wise and practically, since it's a one man shop, you'll never max out amperage on two or more machines at once. Or you're running a big breaker to facilitate the combined max amp load, which seems kinda risky.
Why all the holes in the studs? Why didn't you run several wires through a single hole? I wouldn't imagine it would be heat since you've got a bunch running through the conduit coming up to the j box.
Just wondering.
Stephen
A couple of questions:
I assume the junction box upstairs is because you're running more than one machine per breaker. Makes sense money wise and practically, since it's a one man shop, you'll never max out amperage on two or more machines at once. Or you're running a big breaker to facilitate the combined max amp load, which seems kinda risky.
Why all the holes in the studs? Why didn't you run several wires through a single hole? I wouldn't imagine it would be heat since you've got a bunch running through the conduit coming up to the j box.
Just wondering.
Stephen
Hi Steve,
The Wiring shown is only the 110 for the studio- lights and outlets. All of the 220 and 3ø will be run through exposed conduit- after the inspector has come through for the final. The reason for the junction box relates to the preparation for the conduit. In preparing to have conduit I mounted my panel box as a surface mounted box. This meant that all the romex would make a sloppy entrance- being exposed and all. To avoid that I ran the 2" conduit and terminated all of the romex in the big box upstairs. All that happens in that box is a pass through- no wire nuts, no connections.
The multiple holes in the wall are due to the fact that it is a 2x4 wall. Code says that any hole that the wires pass through has to be 1 1/4" from the edge of the wood- or else you need these metal protector plates. I used a 3/4" bit for those holes and conservatively kept two wires per hole. Code might have allowed more, but there definitely needs some air space- they can't be totally jammed in there.
Pete
The Wiring shown is only the 110 for the studio- lights and outlets. All of the 220 and 3ø will be run through exposed conduit- after the inspector has come through for the final. The reason for the junction box relates to the preparation for the conduit. In preparing to have conduit I mounted my panel box as a surface mounted box. This meant that all the romex would make a sloppy entrance- being exposed and all. To avoid that I ran the 2" conduit and terminated all of the romex in the big box upstairs. All that happens in that box is a pass through- no wire nuts, no connections.
The multiple holes in the wall are due to the fact that it is a 2x4 wall. Code says that any hole that the wires pass through has to be 1 1/4" from the edge of the wood- or else you need these metal protector plates. I used a 3/4" bit for those holes and conservatively kept two wires per hole. Code might have allowed more, but there definitely needs some air space- they can't be totally jammed in there.
Pete
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- Posts: 63
- Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 8:22 am
- Location: Denali, Alaska
There were two permits to get at the start of the project a plain jane building permit- easy to get with architect/engineer stamped plans and a special use permit. I need the special use permit to operate a business in a residential area. the special use permit was more complicated to acquire. it involved appearing in front of the town planning board and making a presentation- took three months to obtain.
There are inspections at most stages of the project. There is but one part-time building inspector for the town and he has been scarce. I saw him day one when I got my permit- he came out and made sure the building wasn't too close to the property line. I haven't seen him since. Electrical is inspected by a separate inspector- an independent contractor- he comes for rough electric and final electric. Also the service feed was inspected, but since I hired a professional electrician to do it, he had his own inspector.
So I still need the following inspections. Framing, insulation, final electric, Certificate of Occupation.
I should have had the following after the initial site inspection: footings- prior to pouring, foundation prior to backfill.
P
There are inspections at most stages of the project. There is but one part-time building inspector for the town and he has been scarce. I saw him day one when I got my permit- he came out and made sure the building wasn't too close to the property line. I haven't seen him since. Electrical is inspected by a separate inspector- an independent contractor- he comes for rough electric and final electric. Also the service feed was inspected, but since I hired a professional electrician to do it, he had his own inspector.
So I still need the following inspections. Framing, insulation, final electric, Certificate of Occupation.
I should have had the following after the initial site inspection: footings- prior to pouring, foundation prior to backfill.
P
I forgot you were going to run a phase converter. So none of the wiring shown is for the machines. I'm still not sure I understand how the j box is going to work, but don't take time to explain again. Be sure to take pictures and I'm sure it will all be clear. Or you may have already covered it somewhere else in the forum.
I understand the wiring holes. I've seen the metal plates and always wondered if the sheetrock wouldn't have a bump where they were.
I've heard that in some small towns the inspector is actually a contractor as well. If you hire him you pay a premium but your project moves along.
You might consider leaving the inspector a voice mail that you have a fresh baked apple pie...with cinnamon for him if he wants to come pick it up. And while he's there take a quick look see at what you've done. And then if he happens to have one of those little green cards that he wouldn't mind autographing for you, since your a fan and all. A little more subtle than "Hey, I'll give you fifty bucks if you'll come today".
Good Luck
Stephen
I understand the wiring holes. I've seen the metal plates and always wondered if the sheetrock wouldn't have a bump where they were.
I've heard that in some small towns the inspector is actually a contractor as well. If you hire him you pay a premium but your project moves along.
You might consider leaving the inspector a voice mail that you have a fresh baked apple pie...with cinnamon for him if he wants to come pick it up. And while he's there take a quick look see at what you've done. And then if he happens to have one of those little green cards that he wouldn't mind autographing for you, since your a fan and all. A little more subtle than "Hey, I'll give you fifty bucks if you'll come today".
Good Luck
Stephen