Nektai's New Studio
Moderator: crzypete
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- Posts: 357
- Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:33 pm
- Location: Greenville Tenn
looks great Nico. I bet you alread been out looking around just smileing to yourself. I know I did after the floor cured for a few days. Just looked around at all that room....now I look around and wonder where all the room went....laughing. Congrats
Tour
Tour
I fought to keep the Gov. in power......they keep screwing around I'll fight to get rid of them.
Trim went on, widows got cut open.
Cross bracing got taken out. How nice it is to walk freely in the new studio.
Trench went in for electric and water but the service will not be connected for about a month
It has been a good few days but I think things will come to a halt until the end of next week when we have the framing inspection. The roofer is scheduled to start end of the week.
Cross bracing got taken out. How nice it is to walk freely in the new studio.
Trench went in for electric and water but the service will not be connected for about a month
It has been a good few days but I think things will come to a halt until the end of next week when we have the framing inspection. The roofer is scheduled to start end of the week.
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- Posts: 357
- Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:33 pm
- Location: Greenville Tenn
Things have been slowly progressing. If the weather cooperates the roofer is scheduled to come today and tomorrow. Materials are on site but the forecast alone could scare them away.
I have been firming up the center bay in the trussed roof to use as an attic space. 15 feet of the 52' x 8' attic will be supported by an interior wall and this is where I plan on putting the heavy stuff. We will see how I feel about the rest of the space after the sub floor goes in.
I have angled a 2 x 6 to go over the 2 x 4 of the truss. Then I am sistering a piece of 3/4" ply 110" long to marry it all together. I was too cheap to buy 6 sheets of the big ply so I am alternating bays using scrap 5/8 ply from the dumpster so I only had to buy 3 sheets. Both are doing an equally good job.
I plan on having access from inside via a trap door and I will cut a door on the outside of the building allowing me to store items like lumber and long ladders. I will cut the door on the uphill side of the building (not the side with the garage door).
I have been firming up the center bay in the trussed roof to use as an attic space. 15 feet of the 52' x 8' attic will be supported by an interior wall and this is where I plan on putting the heavy stuff. We will see how I feel about the rest of the space after the sub floor goes in.
I have angled a 2 x 6 to go over the 2 x 4 of the truss. Then I am sistering a piece of 3/4" ply 110" long to marry it all together. I was too cheap to buy 6 sheets of the big ply so I am alternating bays using scrap 5/8 ply from the dumpster so I only had to buy 3 sheets. Both are doing an equally good job.
I plan on having access from inside via a trap door and I will cut a door on the outside of the building allowing me to store items like lumber and long ladders. I will cut the door on the uphill side of the building (not the side with the garage door).
Last edited by nektai on Fri May 11, 2007 9:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Posts: 357
- Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:33 pm
- Location: Greenville Tenn
Thanks I am very happy with the storage space. Today I framed out the trap door and I started to work on a vertical lumber rack. I am pushing up a section of the ceiling near the garage door so i can stand up some 13' 9" boards. The pictures sucked of that project so here are some of the roof and the electric panel.
The other roof face is finished so I would think that they will complete the job on Monday
The electricians ran an extra piece of conduit for me. The pull box in the attic becomes ground zero for the conduit runs. It should allow for a pretty clean job (I am getting way ahead of myself)
The other roof face is finished so I would think that they will complete the job on Monday
The electricians ran an extra piece of conduit for me. The pull box in the attic becomes ground zero for the conduit runs. It should allow for a pretty clean job (I am getting way ahead of myself)
Hello again,
It has been a busy week. I have had a number of projects in the new studio that needed to be wrapped up by today. Rain has relaxed the schedule and I thought I would take advantage of the delay to ask some questions.
The roof was completed earlier in the week and the masons are working on what will become and outside slab.
Ready to pour the slab. You can just make out the framed opening for the attic access. The tall black pipes provide impact protection for the heaters (the inspector wanted them) An 8' length of 6" pvc that I will thread 5" dust collection hose through later. A bit of 1 1/4" conduit to get power to that same tablesaw island. In the distance you can see a yet to be trimmed piece of 2" pvc drain-line.
All of the pipes, except for the tall black ones, will get cut below the top of the slab. That way the mason can power trowel without obstacle and I will not have to explain all of the pipes to the inspectors. I have been wrapping the base of the pipes a few wraps of 1/8" sill seal foam. The idea is to provide for expansion and to allow the impact protection pipes to be removed if they bother me. Anyone think this is a bad idea? I have time to make it right.
In this last picture you can see the start of a lumber rack. Tall boards will stand where the ladder is.
It has been a busy week. I have had a number of projects in the new studio that needed to be wrapped up by today. Rain has relaxed the schedule and I thought I would take advantage of the delay to ask some questions.
The roof was completed earlier in the week and the masons are working on what will become and outside slab.
Ready to pour the slab. You can just make out the framed opening for the attic access. The tall black pipes provide impact protection for the heaters (the inspector wanted them) An 8' length of 6" pvc that I will thread 5" dust collection hose through later. A bit of 1 1/4" conduit to get power to that same tablesaw island. In the distance you can see a yet to be trimmed piece of 2" pvc drain-line.
All of the pipes, except for the tall black ones, will get cut below the top of the slab. That way the mason can power trowel without obstacle and I will not have to explain all of the pipes to the inspectors. I have been wrapping the base of the pipes a few wraps of 1/8" sill seal foam. The idea is to provide for expansion and to allow the impact protection pipes to be removed if they bother me. Anyone think this is a bad idea? I have time to make it right.
In this last picture you can see the start of a lumber rack. Tall boards will stand where the ladder is.
Big day yesterday, just like crzy, we were visited by a couple mixer trucks.
I am happy with the results. Usually floors get hand troweled by a few masons on their knees with some sort of plywood snow shoe like pads. This is how my current studio was finished and I have been pretty happy with the results. The biggest problem had been the pipes that i had stuck up, the masons got kind of lumpy around them. I mention this because my plan to keep the pipes below grade has already made for a better job. Here is how it went.
After they got the concrete into the building and a fair amount of sloshing it about they broke out the power float (not sure if that is the correct name)
Next they used a float to re work the surface and tie it together from one power floated section to another.
After the floor dried for about 3-4 hours they came back and power troweled the floor.
They also gave a nice texture to the outdoor area.
I am looking forward to seeing the finished texture, I think it will be nice but not so nice that i would be afraid to use it. In the past I have painted my floor white but this time it may be too nice to paint.
I am happy with the results. Usually floors get hand troweled by a few masons on their knees with some sort of plywood snow shoe like pads. This is how my current studio was finished and I have been pretty happy with the results. The biggest problem had been the pipes that i had stuck up, the masons got kind of lumpy around them. I mention this because my plan to keep the pipes below grade has already made for a better job. Here is how it went.
After they got the concrete into the building and a fair amount of sloshing it about they broke out the power float (not sure if that is the correct name)
Next they used a float to re work the surface and tie it together from one power floated section to another.
After the floor dried for about 3-4 hours they came back and power troweled the floor.
They also gave a nice texture to the outdoor area.
I am looking forward to seeing the finished texture, I think it will be nice but not so nice that i would be afraid to use it. In the past I have painted my floor white but this time it may be too nice to paint.
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- Posts: 357
- Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:33 pm
- Location: Greenville Tenn
Looks great nektai. I put paper over my floor and watered it every day for a month. I mean soaked it good until water ran out of the door. I was told by an old timmer that concrete works long after it is finished. It needs the water to complete it's chemical process. The older gentalman used old burlap sacks on his floors. He said the thing now is to get it pored as dry as possable get it done and get out.
To date mine still has no crack.
tour
To date mine still has no crack.
tour
I fought to keep the Gov. in power......they keep screwing around I'll fight to get rid of them.
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- Posts: 357
- Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:33 pm
- Location: Greenville Tenn
Mystry,
The siding is T & G center match cedar with the rough side out. I am not sure of the grade but it is all that I can get out here without a special order. I am very happy with the look and it matches the siding on the house- when it goes grey the two buildings will look like they belong together.
The siding is T & G center match cedar with the rough side out. I am not sure of the grade but it is all that I can get out here without a special order. I am very happy with the look and it matches the siding on the house- when it goes grey the two buildings will look like they belong together.
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- Posts: 357
- Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:33 pm
- Location: Greenville Tenn