SawStop review!?!? What?!?
Moderator: crzypete
SawStop review!?!? What?!?
Ok - a moment of backstory:
I had a tenant in my shop for a few years who came featuring a newish unisaw, which made for a nice extra saw to have around, even though it was poorly made. When he moved out recently, I decided to go looking for a 70's or 80's Powermatic 66 - the thought being, well - I'm paying for this one, it should be a good saw.
Then a funny thing happened - I was contacted by SawStop (you know, the 'it won't cut a hot dog' saw?) - HGTV wanted to feature their saw on a show called 'I Want That!', and they needed someone to demo the saw in the feature. Well, with my model good looks and my sparkling personality, I was an obvious choice. (ahem.)
So, after a few conversations about their product line, they sent me a 5HP 3Phase tablesaw, for free (!!) in exchange for me doing the demo and the shoot.
The week before I set it up and did the shoot, one of my tenants nearly cut off a finger on my big Wadkin tablesaw, mostly because he's an idiot (I can say this now because in the end, it was just a nasty cut).
So. Now I have a saw that WILL NOT cut you, no matter how big of an idiot you are. And I gotta tell you guys, this is a pretty nice saw! Compared to any of the other new Delta/Powermatic/Jet/etc. small saws, this thing is really well made, and it has this sexy black and red fetish thing going on, besides.
Obviously, this isn't a great ol' cast iron monster like the things we all tend to love, but for a new machine, I'm really impressed. And I have to admit that I love the 'it won't hurt you' thing, no matter how much I scoffed at it before I owned one.
Just wanted to chime in and let y'all know, this guy is making a damned good saw for what it is, and the safety stuff is pretty cool. I expected to jump 12 feet in the air and shriek like a little girl when we did the hot dog test, and it didn't even startle me - the blade simply stopped and disappeared, and we could hardly even find the scratch on the hot dog's skin.
I had a tenant in my shop for a few years who came featuring a newish unisaw, which made for a nice extra saw to have around, even though it was poorly made. When he moved out recently, I decided to go looking for a 70's or 80's Powermatic 66 - the thought being, well - I'm paying for this one, it should be a good saw.
Then a funny thing happened - I was contacted by SawStop (you know, the 'it won't cut a hot dog' saw?) - HGTV wanted to feature their saw on a show called 'I Want That!', and they needed someone to demo the saw in the feature. Well, with my model good looks and my sparkling personality, I was an obvious choice. (ahem.)
So, after a few conversations about their product line, they sent me a 5HP 3Phase tablesaw, for free (!!) in exchange for me doing the demo and the shoot.
The week before I set it up and did the shoot, one of my tenants nearly cut off a finger on my big Wadkin tablesaw, mostly because he's an idiot (I can say this now because in the end, it was just a nasty cut).
So. Now I have a saw that WILL NOT cut you, no matter how big of an idiot you are. And I gotta tell you guys, this is a pretty nice saw! Compared to any of the other new Delta/Powermatic/Jet/etc. small saws, this thing is really well made, and it has this sexy black and red fetish thing going on, besides.
Obviously, this isn't a great ol' cast iron monster like the things we all tend to love, but for a new machine, I'm really impressed. And I have to admit that I love the 'it won't hurt you' thing, no matter how much I scoffed at it before I owned one.
Just wanted to chime in and let y'all know, this guy is making a damned good saw for what it is, and the safety stuff is pretty cool. I expected to jump 12 feet in the air and shriek like a little girl when we did the hot dog test, and it didn't even startle me - the blade simply stopped and disappeared, and we could hardly even find the scratch on the hot dog's skin.
I have done many things in my life to help me earn the title 'idiot' as surely as the guy in my shop, or as any other idiot, for that matter, but that might be just a little too trusting.
You know you're always welcome for a shop visit, though, right? Give me a little heads up, and I'll see if I can get that camera crew back...
You know you're always welcome for a shop visit, though, right? Give me a little heads up, and I'll see if I can get that camera crew back...
Thanks for the review. I've been thinking about the saw-stop lately. For those who don't know about it you can see it on their website www.sawstop.com
I don't know about my pinkie, but I definitely would need to try that hotdog, or in my case a notdog.
Pete
I don't know about my pinkie, but I definitely would need to try that hotdog, or in my case a notdog.
Pete
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Nektai -
You're right, it's based on conductivity. If something (like your finger) completes the circuit, the brake releases and the blade stops and drops on a pivot all at once.
This is where the cool and the uncool part of the saw comes in. You can test a material, simply by touching the blade with it when it isn't spinning (!) - the little indicators will tell you if it's conductive. If so, you can bypass the brake cartridge. The part that's annoying is that you have to turn the bypass key as you turn it on, each time you turn the blade on again. So, if you're making many repetetive cuts in aluminum, that's fine, but if you're stopping and starting (changing the fence, etc.), I would find it a bit of a drag.
You've got me curious - I'll touch a brad to it, and see what happens - it might not be enough to set it off.
I think that if there was a way to truly 'turn off' the safety features for a whole series of cuts, it'd be cooler, but if you're using mostly wood products, I guess it's rare enough to not be such a big deal. And I guess I can understand how that would be a legal problem for the manufacturer.
I'm bothered by the fact that I can't make that decision on my own, but I'm opposed to helmet and seatbelt laws, too.
At the end of the day, as a guy who runs a pseudo co-op shop, with many tenants - I'm glad to have the safety stuff, and the important issue is that I think it's a better saw than the other new ones out there.
You're right, it's based on conductivity. If something (like your finger) completes the circuit, the brake releases and the blade stops and drops on a pivot all at once.
This is where the cool and the uncool part of the saw comes in. You can test a material, simply by touching the blade with it when it isn't spinning (!) - the little indicators will tell you if it's conductive. If so, you can bypass the brake cartridge. The part that's annoying is that you have to turn the bypass key as you turn it on, each time you turn the blade on again. So, if you're making many repetetive cuts in aluminum, that's fine, but if you're stopping and starting (changing the fence, etc.), I would find it a bit of a drag.
You've got me curious - I'll touch a brad to it, and see what happens - it might not be enough to set it off.
I think that if there was a way to truly 'turn off' the safety features for a whole series of cuts, it'd be cooler, but if you're using mostly wood products, I guess it's rare enough to not be such a big deal. And I guess I can understand how that would be a legal problem for the manufacturer.
I'm bothered by the fact that I can't make that decision on my own, but I'm opposed to helmet and seatbelt laws, too.
At the end of the day, as a guy who runs a pseudo co-op shop, with many tenants - I'm glad to have the safety stuff, and the important issue is that I think it's a better saw than the other new ones out there.
I got to see a sawstop saw last weekend on a visit to RIT's woodshop. Hopefully we will have another users review to add to this thread.
I learned some more about how the saw works. To stop the blade, you destroy the blad. An aluminum extrusion is jammed into the saw blade as it drops below the table. Each time it fires you need to replace this extrusion and most likely your saw blade. They have had it fire four times- never with the touch of a finger, simply a false alarm.
Here are some pics I took of the blade stopping mechanism- after having being fired.
This is all I have, hopefully the better more detailed review will answer all of your numerous questions.
Pete
I learned some more about how the saw works. To stop the blade, you destroy the blad. An aluminum extrusion is jammed into the saw blade as it drops below the table. Each time it fires you need to replace this extrusion and most likely your saw blade. They have had it fire four times- never with the touch of a finger, simply a false alarm.
Here are some pics I took of the blade stopping mechanism- after having being fired.
This is all I have, hopefully the better more detailed review will answer all of your numerous questions.
Pete
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- Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:33 pm
- Location: Greenville Tenn
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- Posts: 30
- Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:44 pm
- Location: East Orange, NJ
- Contact:
Hey Junkies
don't post often but had to say this is a very well built table saw. bought one about a month ago because I now have employees in the shop. I saw it first at IWF, but didn't see a need to buy it at the time. Now with insurance, workers comp, disability . . . its a no brainer. I replaced my 1950's unisaw with the sawstop. The new saw weighs more, is built better, more horsepower options. and besides this it has a european riving knife like a large panel saw. its great, doesn't get in the way and i haven't had an urge to rip it out yet. the dust collection is amazing. the quality of the machining on the cast iron table is hands down, the best I've seen in years.
At $4000, I thought twice about it, but with guys in the shop, even a small accident is $10,000 + lost work. Sellers seem to have set prices, so doesn't matter where you buy it.
don't post often but had to say this is a very well built table saw. bought one about a month ago because I now have employees in the shop. I saw it first at IWF, but didn't see a need to buy it at the time. Now with insurance, workers comp, disability . . . its a no brainer. I replaced my 1950's unisaw with the sawstop. The new saw weighs more, is built better, more horsepower options. and besides this it has a european riving knife like a large panel saw. its great, doesn't get in the way and i haven't had an urge to rip it out yet. the dust collection is amazing. the quality of the machining on the cast iron table is hands down, the best I've seen in years.
At $4000, I thought twice about it, but with guys in the shop, even a small accident is $10,000 + lost work. Sellers seem to have set prices, so doesn't matter where you buy it.
Danny Birnbaum
DB Fine Furniture & Design
71 Glenwood Place
East Orange, NJ 07017
dbfinefurniture.com
DB Fine Furniture & Design
71 Glenwood Place
East Orange, NJ 07017
dbfinefurniture.com
SawStoppie
The SawStop has a manual override switch for a "Bypass Mode" - This allows the saw to cut aluminum and other conductive materials without setting off the brake mechanism.Funny I was talking about the sawstop today with a friend of mine and he said that the saw will go off/fire if you run a board with gold leaf on it.
I thought it was interesting.
I am planning on getting a SawStop for my shop. (Actually I can't wait.)
The safety aspects are very compelling - as well as it's known precision and -uh- "sexy" appearance.
Eventually, I want to teach my kids the fine craft of woodworking - the SawStop already puts my heart at ease a bit, and I don't even own one yet.
Really, I can't decide between the SawStop or an old 3500lb, 14" direct drive Tannewitz. Decisions Decisions.
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I wish that they made a drill press. I have had more heart stopping incidents when I step up to drill one quick hole in metal. I never learn to set up properly with a vise so it would be nice if the drill press could compensate for my stupidity. I have a completely different attitude about the table saw, I am much more cautious. I can only imagine how bold I might feel if I knew that the saw would not cut me. The prospect of doing really stupid things on the table saw...It might just be worth the price of the saw!