Oliver nameplate repaint
Moderator: nektai
Oliver nameplate repaint
Yes I know I am stupid, but you already knew that as well. When my new to me Oliver 399 planer arrived some moron had painted over the brass oliver nameplate. Well you knew I could not let that stay. So After initial attempts at scraping the paint, I decided a quick half hour in my dunk tank with some lacquer thinner might remove just the top layer of grey paint.
Six hours later when I remembered to remove it from the tank, I found that the original oliver paint did not dissolve in lacquer thinner and yet the grey top coat did, I was almost all set.
Except, the oliver lettering that was supposed to be white was missing all of it's white paint. No problem. I bought a can of rustoleum flat white and brushed it in. i figured I would protect the plate with a little of bartley's gel and give the white paint some gloss and patina at the same time.
Well here I am, the oliver is all painted in, but now I am looking at the black background. I am wondering should I go for the bart and be done, or do I keep going. I know I am asking for trouble, because if I do the background, I will also have to do the red and blue areas. If I stop now, It will have a used look, perhaps appropriate for a 60 year old machine. I am truly debating this. if I knew the black would come out perfectly, there would be no debate, I just foresee brushstrokes in my future.
OK, here's the pic
Six hours later when I remembered to remove it from the tank, I found that the original oliver paint did not dissolve in lacquer thinner and yet the grey top coat did, I was almost all set.
Except, the oliver lettering that was supposed to be white was missing all of it's white paint. No problem. I bought a can of rustoleum flat white and brushed it in. i figured I would protect the plate with a little of bartley's gel and give the white paint some gloss and patina at the same time.
Well here I am, the oliver is all painted in, but now I am looking at the black background. I am wondering should I go for the bart and be done, or do I keep going. I know I am asking for trouble, because if I do the background, I will also have to do the red and blue areas. If I stop now, It will have a used look, perhaps appropriate for a 60 year old machine. I am truly debating this. if I knew the black would come out perfectly, there would be no debate, I just foresee brushstrokes in my future.
OK, here's the pic
Last edited by crzypete on Thu Oct 11, 2007 10:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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name plate availability
all this discussion on the name plates helps me recall a source for the cast, raised letter name plates. I believe I Have Oliver, in two sizes, Yates american oval, and a Tannywitz or two.
Well, I started the black paint, and damn it makes a difference. It definitely has brush strokes, but I am going t try a little steel wool- perhaps after a second coat. I'm using flat black and it looks nice. I don't think i will be able to get a red or blue as flat paint, but perhaps the bartleys will blend the sheens.
will post pics when more progress is made.
pete
will post pics when more progress is made.
pete
One last update to this thread.
As I paint and polish the rest of the tags on the planer I figured I might add a bit to my technique.
I have read of folks who have done this before, and their technique seems to always involve a hardblock with some fine sandpaper. I have found that this doesn't wok so well for me, especially with the dented areas of tags.
My best successes have come with 0000 steel wool, it just seems to work better.
pete[/i]
As I paint and polish the rest of the tags on the planer I figured I might add a bit to my technique.
I have read of folks who have done this before, and their technique seems to always involve a hardblock with some fine sandpaper. I have found that this doesn't wok so well for me, especially with the dented areas of tags.
My best successes have come with 0000 steel wool, it just seems to work better.
pete[/i]
Nice job on the badge. I am working on a couple for my old Oliver machines.
One thing I would note is that the black areas on these tags were not painted originally. They were blackened chemically, probably with nitric acid. I used BrassBlack from Birchwood Casey and it works very well.
When they were made, I doubt they spent that much time on them. The whole tag was probably blackened. The red, blue and white in filled and the high areas cleaned to reveal the brass. On the ones I have seen, the white was painted over the blue.
One thing I would note is that the black areas on these tags were not painted originally. They were blackened chemically, probably with nitric acid. I used BrassBlack from Birchwood Casey and it works very well.
When they were made, I doubt they spent that much time on them. The whole tag was probably blackened. The red, blue and white in filled and the high areas cleaned to reveal the brass. On the ones I have seen, the white was painted over the blue.
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- Posts: 357
- Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:33 pm
- Location: Greenville Tenn
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- Posts: 357
- Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:33 pm
- Location: Greenville Tenn