Need a Crescent jointer bearing- found them

CarpenterMark · Post by **CarpenterMark** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 6:28 pm

As some of you may know,I bought a 12" Crescent jointer last Monday.
Being a belt drive model it uses a large SKF 1408-B self aligning bearing on the inboard side of the head. It measures 40mm x 110mm x 33, not made much anymore and hard to find. I may be able to use a smaller bearing with the same bore, so if anybody has something you can pm me here. Thanks

Mark

crzypete · Post by **crzypete** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:25 pm

Mark, I'll check my drawer of oddities..... Its a long shot of course, but stranger things have happened before. If not sleeving a bearing is a decent option. Especially if you have a metal lathe in house.

Pete

CarpenterMark · Post by **CarpenterMark** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 9:34 pm

That is my other option, I've been looking for a bearing with the same bore but smaller on the OD & thickness, I can sleeve it and put a spacer behind it.
I was looking at a 1310 which is the same od but bigger bore and thinner, for that I'll have to make a tee bushing. I'm waiting for the guy to get back to me. The replacement for that 1408 is expensive

crzypete · Post by **crzypete** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 9:18 am

An inside stepped ring isn't that bad a solution- Easier to make a smaller OD ring and the step just isn't that big a deal.

How expensive is that bearing?

Pete

CarpenterMark · Post by **CarpenterMark** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 10:11 am

I got two quotes, but I think they were both buying from Consolidated in NJ. One was $465, the other $532. The 1307 was $87. I had also called Accurate, but if you can't order from their stock you can be SOL. Lynn said she'd call me back Monday as the supplier she talked with (again, probably Consolidated) had to check the specs on what they had.
The bearing is held tight on the shaft with a nut that tightens the inner race against a shoulder; that's why I'll have to use a spacer, but that with a stepped ring would definitely hold everything in place well.
With that ring in mind, does anybody have a piece of 4-1/2" cold rolled lying around?

crzypete · Post by **crzypete** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 1:59 pm

No Surprise, No luck in my bearing drawer.

Damn, That is a pricy bearing! I can see why you are scrounging about!

Pete

CarpenterMark · Post by **CarpenterMark** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:22 pm

Oh yes, and $165 more than I paid for the jointer. This really kicks a hole in the resto budget, still gotta get a motor and wanted to get the tables ground.
The thing that surprises me the most is that everyone keeps on asking me"are you sure thats the bearing you need?" Yes I am, I took it out and have it in my hand!

CarpenterMark · Post by **CarpenterMark** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 6:09 pm

Found the smaller 1307 on the 'bay for 17.50 (was quoted $70+) and got the big 1408(M) from National Bearing in NJ for $285 which is a far cry from $532. Hope the tables clean up well, got almost $700 in the jointer and still need a motor and have to do the resto. I'm moving this to the front, want to use it.
Hey, does anyone know anything about the felt washers that are supposed to go in with the bearings? Mine had none when I pulled it apart, I think they're for an oil seal at the shaft opening. Any one have any info?

crzypete · Post by **crzypete** » Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:04 pm

That is quite a savings. Glad you found a better deal. At the end of the day having a running machine is the most important thing.

As and aside from you crazy expensive bearings which I would have fought tooth and nail to find cheaper. I tend not to do the final math on my machine rebuilds. Factoring in the cost of bearings is like counting how much sandpaper a sander is going to use, They are both disposable items that wear out and get replaced. Just my take on things.

My previous jointer was a crescent, but it was a babbit machine that had been converted with pillow blocks, so I have no real experience getting inside one of these. I can say it is a pretty nice machine when running and I built many pieces of Furniture with my 12" crescent jointer.

Kinda funny that the Crescents seem to be most common in that 12" size. Sure, you occasionally run across 16's and 8's, but those 12's are just the predominant species.

Pete

CarpenterMark · Post by **CarpenterMark** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 10:55 am

Well, I'm putting the cost up against the fact that I almost bought a plug and play 12" Crescent for $1500. What stopped me was that it was DMD and I didn't want to have to run it on my RPC (that I don't have set up yet because all the machines I'm using right now are single phase).
I agree, the 12" is the one you see most. I wanted the 12 for the smaller footprint that fits my space right now- another reason for wanting the belt drive = less width. Besides, I mostly rip my stock to rough size first before I flatten and plane, rarely need more than 12". But I'm sure that when the right 16-20" shows up.......

crzypete · Post by **crzypete** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 11:21 pm

I guess my thought is that the plug and play one would not have had new bearings and probably was not redone like the one you are fixing.

Plus, if you really want to do the math you should probably factor in a little money for your time.... it can get out of control here. Best to accept that you made your bed and are going to have a machine that you know inside and out and not worry about whether you saved a couple of hundred or overspent.

I figure I cannot afford to buy one like I would fix it. In fact every time I have decided to bypass the fixing route, I seem to end up fixing it anyway!

I guess at the end of the day, the useful and fully functioning machine trumps the math for me, so I have stopped doing the math as it might cheapen me from going over the top with the repairs.

As to size, I guess it depends what kind of work you do and what you make, I found a 12" a bit small for me, but would have been completely satisfied with a 16" I ended up with a 20" and still have no regrets. That being said, a 12" is a very functional machine and I could build a lot of furniture with one as my primary jointer.

Pete

CarpenterMark · Post by **CarpenterMark** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 7:30 am

Yes, I have to agree with your thoughts on buying machines; functioning or not, I end up working on them anyway, just gotta tweak it and make it mine. And there's no way you can touch a new comparable machine for what we have in them in the end, as long as you don't count that labor.
I was kind of looking for a 16" jointer (have an Ollie 399) but space considerations and my socio-economic status- just got divorced and work is slow everywhere- made me go for the 12". Since most of the time I rough rip my stock and then flatten, plane & joint it will work out fine. The amount of times I've needed larger have been few.

BlackDog · Post by **BlackDog** » Fri Jan 09, 2015 8:29 pm

CarpenterMark wrote:\
Hey, does anyone know anything about the felt washers that are supposed to go in with the bearings? Mine had none when I pulled it apart, I think they're for an oil seal at the shaft opening. Any one have any info?

Can you post some photos of your machine and the bearings??

Mine has babbit (white metal) bearings. The felt I thought was for wicking the oil into the bearings. Not needed for sealed bearings.

Is yours a late model 70's?

THey came out originally with the babbit bearings, later an option for ball bearings. I haven't heard of one with cased bearings, not saying they didn't come that way I just haven't come across one. Hence I would like to see how it has been done.

CarpenterMark · Post by **CarpenterMark** » Sat Jan 10, 2015 8:48 am

My jointer hails from between 1928 to '35. It uses oil bath self aligning ball bearings.
Have to go to work, can't post pics right now- go to http://vintagemachinery.org/
for info on Crescent machinery.

CarpenterMark · Post by **CarpenterMark** » Sat Jan 10, 2015 8:27 pm

some pics-