The Burning Bandsaw
Moderator: crzypete
The Burning Bandsaw
I bought an older 14 inch bandsaw. Made in 1987 in Taiwan for Homier tools. It's all cast iron/steel and in good shape. It has what looks like a hook tooth blade on it. It runs great and is quiet. But when I saw any type of wood, it burns the wood and creats some smoke. The blade is covered with black stuff, probably burned wood? The saw does not seem to be running too fast or too slow. I am concidering replacing the blade to see if that solves the problem? Other than that, I can't think of anything else to do to stop the wood from burning. The wood is black and burned looking after I am done cutting it. Looks like charcoal around the saw area too
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- Posts: 18
- Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 11:36 pm
- Location: Belleville, IL
I agree with Eric- totally shot or running backwards, or perhaps the blade got inside-outed and the teeth are running upsidedown.
a new blade is definitely in your future. Personally I like a 3 or 4 tpi hook or skip flex back blade.
www.mscdirect.com is a great source for bandsaw blades. They are famous for their next day shipping for no extra money, and their prices are right on.
Pete
a new blade is definitely in your future. Personally I like a 3 or 4 tpi hook or skip flex back blade.
www.mscdirect.com is a great source for bandsaw blades. They are famous for their next day shipping for no extra money, and their prices are right on.
Pete
If you want to pick up a blade locally I can recommend the 3/8" wide delta blade with 3 or 4 tpi for your saw (I forget how they sell it but it is one or the other they do not make both a 3 and a 4 tpi). It offers the best relationship of stability for big straight cuts and the ability cut a descent curve.
The final advantage of the 3/8" blade is that you can actually tension it properly on a 14" saw which will result in longer blade life and better cuts. On the Delta 14" I tightened the blade to the tension recommended for the 1/2" blade, the delta had a simple tension gage.
The final advantage of the 3/8" blade is that you can actually tension it properly on a 14" saw which will result in longer blade life and better cuts. On the Delta 14" I tightened the blade to the tension recommended for the 1/2" blade, the delta had a simple tension gage.
Treevader, I wouldn't worry about slowing the saw down for wood. My Tannewitz cuts at over 7000 spm - almost twice as fast as a 14" delta or equivilent. The Tanny goes through blades a tad faster, but man it cuts.
The trick would be reduce the number of teeth pasing through the wood- almost the same principle if you think about it- speed of bandsaw is how many teeth are passing through the wood per minute.
pete
The trick would be reduce the number of teeth pasing through the wood- almost the same principle if you think about it- speed of bandsaw is how many teeth are passing through the wood per minute.
pete
The blade that is on it looks like a quarter inch with skip tooth. The teeth are not close together and that's what makes me wonder why it would burn the wood? I felt the blade after turning it off and resawing a piece of maple. The blade was cool not hot as I thought it would be. Really has me puzzled. I tried cutting a soft piece of aluminum and it zipped right thru it with no problems. But if you fellows think it is shot then I'll get another blade and put it on. I don't know how fast it is running? Doesn't seem fast. Like you say about your saw. That is fast. I'll have to get a blade if I just knew which type to get? The fellow at the saw sharpening store has lots of them but I think he wants to sell the slow movers to me. I want to do a lot of resawing of logs and two by fours. I'll be making small boxes and doll house furniture. I am not much for scroll sawing things. I think a quarter inch blade with the right teeth is what I will need.
could be running too slow??
1/4" blade does not sound like enough for "resawing of logs and two by fours" I would run either a 3/8" or a 1/2". To me a 3/8" is a good general purpose cutting blade, 1/2" is better for resawing. I would try a 3/8" 3 or 4 tpi and go from there.
1/4" blade will let you cut a tighter radius, but will tend to wander when you resaw.
Pete
1/4" blade does not sound like enough for "resawing of logs and two by fours" I would run either a 3/8" or a 1/2". To me a 3/8" is a good general purpose cutting blade, 1/2" is better for resawing. I would try a 3/8" 3 or 4 tpi and go from there.
1/4" blade will let you cut a tighter radius, but will tend to wander when you resaw.
Pete