MachineJunkie

I would start out with that pulley and see how you like the performance. There is great variety in rams of table saws if you account that the different diameter blades are spun at similar rpm's. I have heard many complain about the standard hammond speed being too slow, but I have never had any issu...

It depends on what you are intending to do. I have both a forrest WW1 and WW2 in the 8.5" size For thick stock and general cutting, the WW2 is great. For glass like cuts in thinner stuff- 1.5" and less and working plywood, the WW1 is my choice. I try to only use the WW1 when the cut warran...

I'd probably try to copy the wadkin PK angle gage. It has a double angle system which would be nice for miters. Making some stops for common angles would be great as well. Also wood inserts for close cutting to the blade. I assume a set-up like this would mean taking off the current finger scale, wh...

A while back I started thinking about making a blade arbor that could be hot swappable to the standard hammond faceplate. I finally got around to it and have been running it for about a year and am quite satisfied. The standard faceplate is held in place with a drawbar of sorts. This allows you to r...

Hi Bill, I have documented most of my modifications here, but have just made a new arbor solution that allows using a regular 5/8" bore saw blade and easily swapping back to the flat-mounted hammond blade. I will work up a post on this and link from here. link http://machinejunkie.com/forum/vie...

I am amazing myself by actually writing more to this thread. I am selling my oldest saw- a G3 serial number 892, and took some time to photograph it. The G3 is an all cast iron base saw. This cast iron base carried over into the early G4's. What is unique about the G3 is its blade raising mechanism ...

I thought there was a G22 on eBay recently that looked pretty much like a G2, which is a bench top glider of early vintage. I have actually written a little write up of the G2 in my probably never to be completed hammond guide up in the stickies.

Post or email some pics, I'm curious to see it.

Pete

All the extras are nice. Three phase is not that big a deal. I think you would be best with a VFD, as it will be easier than swapping the motor as the motors would most likely need an adapter plate and possibly a different sized pulley as the bore would be different. You could also use a small rotar...

I will part with one scale at some point, but it will not be until after I combine these two saws into one.

If you look underneath you will see that two of the holes are counter-bored to allow for the head of the socket head caps screw. The other two holes (smaller I think) are tapered.

Pete

Hi Brian, The scale was fixed to the table via two taper pins and two socket head cap screws. I may have a spare scale unit come available at some point, but need to hold it for now as I am planning on some frankenstein like surgery combing two saws into one.

Let's see a pic of the arbor mod?

Peter

I dislike them as 10" saws. It creates too many problems including that the blade will not go beneath the table. They are better as 8.5" saws. Will probably be a bit hard with no metal skills. Read the posts that have been made about modifications and you will see what is involved. What mo...

I suspect you could make it a good looking repair. After all we are only talking about the ball cap of the motor. You can silver solder cast iron which is almost invisible. Or braze it and the grind the braze and bondo it. You would never see it. I'd do this in a heartbeat. Paint and bondo will cove...

You could call eagle machinery and see if they can fabricate one, but it will probably be expensive. Other options would be to fix the one you have, fabricate a suitable replacement or post an ad over at OWWM and hope that someone actually has one kicking about.

Pete

I'm unclear what you are looking for? Are you looking for the ruler or the finger? I have a spare ruler. But the fingers have become harder and harder to find. They are out there though.

Pete

Hi Dan, Looks like you bough the two saws that HGR had. But at way nicer prices than they had listed. Yes the arbor is the same on the two saws, but not many other parts are. I would think you could fab up a new hinged table section out of plate. That seems like an easy fix for that saw. Plus, that ...

Figure 450 as the weight, so at least 500 prepared for shipping. They are top heavy, so if it is going to ship vertically, they need to be well secured to the pallet. They don't lay down on their sides very nicely. If you do plan on doing this, I would suggest removing the finger scale and table loc...

Here is a link to a video that is half an hour long. It chronicles the last day that the NY Times used letterpress on their paper. There is only one clip of a printers saw, and it is not a hammond. It's still a great video and worth a watch. i learned a lot. http://www.nytimes.com/video/insider/1000...

I had sherwin Williams match up some enamel for my g100 a while back. The G4's used a darker color. If you are looking for the G100 color I can dig around and see what information I have.

Pete

Yup, That's pretty toast. A couple of options. You can try to find a cheaper shop to rewind. Look for a replacement motor- I would post over at Owwm. Or part it out and scrap the rest. I'm not sure where you are in the country, but saws like this do come up pretty frequently, so not the end of the w...

No the wiring diagram is normally on the outside of the motor, or often on the outside of the saw. These things are pretty standard though, you can normally borrow the wiring diagram from other three phase motors and it should be the same. Do you have three or 9 leads coming out of the motor?

Pete