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Brian



Joined: 26 Mar 2017
Posts: 3
Location: British Columbia

PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2017 1:29 pm    Post subject: New guy Reply with quote

Hi,
Just purchased a g140, unfortunately it did not come with the finger scale or any other pieces.
It has been modified to accept a standard 5/8" arbor blade.
Can someone tell me how the scale was fixed to the sliding table?
I plan on making some dedicated fixtures and from what I can see I will use alignment pins in the existing holes.
If anyone has any accessories they would be interested in selling please notify me.
Thanks
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crzypete



Joined: 16 Dec 2004
Posts: 1689
Location: New York State

PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Brian, The scale was fixed to the table via two taper pins and two socket head cap screws. I may have a spare scale unit come available at some point, but need to hold it for now as I am planning on some frankenstein like surgery combing two saws into one.

Let's see a pic of the arbor mod?

Peter
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Brian



Joined: 26 Mar 2017
Posts: 3
Location: British Columbia

PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Peter, the arbor mod is simple, likely one of your ideas, just a new hub held in place by the drawbolt. I may get another machined up so I can use a 1/2" arbor blade for fret slotting.
The only issue is 7-1/4" blade max, but I have two other table saws so its not really a problem

Cannot seem to post pics.

Should you decide to part with your scale I would be interested.
Regarding the mounting, which holes had pins and which had capscrews.
It seems as there would be no clearance for the table to slide with caps protruding down.

Thanks again
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crzypete



Joined: 16 Dec 2004
Posts: 1689
Location: New York State

PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will part with one scale at some point, but it will not be until after I combine these two saws into one.

If you look underneath you will see that two of the holes are counter-bored to allow for the head of the socket head caps screw. The other two holes (smaller I think) are tapered.

Pete
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januaryw



Joined: 11 Apr 2015
Posts: 5
Location: Salem Oregon

PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, another luthier.
Although I have the LMI setup (which is a 6" blade (5/8 arbor) with 2 - 5-1/2" stabilizer disks) . . . I don't think it would do well on the glider, although one stabilizer might fit on the outboard side with a really thin blade, 23 thousandths - you have fret kerf blades w 1/2 in arbors?

I actually use a separate rig with Malco 2-3/4 in slitting blades (solid carbide) that come in fret widths (0.024") - with templates and all.

Good luck w yours - It's an awesome rig, hope you can get it working. I looked for a while for mine rejecting the 3-ph ones - I'd guess they run about 50-50 between single and 3 ph.

January
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Brian



Joined: 26 Mar 2017
Posts: 3
Location: British Columbia

PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks J,
I think the LMI blade with 4" Forrest stiffeners is going to be the way to go.
That will give me an inch or so of blade above the table, hopefully I dont have frets that deep.
I had considered using a Thurston blade which comes with 1/2 or 1" arbor hole. I think they have too many teeth for wood cutting
As the arbor has some lateral adjustment, I don't see any issues with clearance for the stiffeners.
My next thought is to utilise the other side of the arbour, previously a grinder wheel, for a buffer. This would entail having a removable, thread mounted arbor extension turned.
This would require some form of speed control, either pulley adjustment or a multi speed motor.
I need to research the options, can someone with motor control experience tell what the requirements would be for an AC motor. Do I need a motor designed for 2 or more speeds or can I control it with a rheostat without harm to the motor?

Thanks,
Brian
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