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My first Oliver
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nektai



Joined: 17 Dec 2004
Posts: 1019
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Made some progress since the last post.

The paint finally dried so i could lightly sand the body and put a top coat on


A wire wheel and a quick paint job by brush. In my youth i would have put these on my lathe and polished the hand wheel and then masked them off so they could be sprayed.



The red looks totally wrong. I hope it dries to an acceptable shade or it is back to the paint store to beg a squirt of the black pigment.



Now for a question.

I called Charles GG Schmidt today to ask about balancing the knives that came with the machine. They were not in the mood to grind the 1/8" of variance away and suggested i buy a new set. They dont have the oliver specs. Anyone know what a virgin set of oliver knives looks like?

The knives that were in there are 16" 1/16" long and 1/8" thick. Needless to say the height varies.

Stephen,
I asked your question. They said that the rule is that once the knife is short of the gibb it is time for a new set. He said that anything approaching the center of the gibb was very dangerous.


Last edited by nektai on Tue Nov 18, 2008 7:43 pm; edited 1 time in total
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swparish



Joined: 11 Sep 2007
Posts: 35
Location: Ft. Worth TX

PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks like on my machine the slot for the knives (donít know the technical term) is 1 3/8". So the question is how far out of the cutter head do you want the knives? I feel like the closer to the cutter head the bevel is without being below it provides the most support while still allowing maximum clearance. Youíd have to do some figuring to come up with a knife width; taking into account the distance from the back of the bevel to the cutting edge. I know this may be confusing without visual reference. Maybe someone thinks like I do and can understand, or better yet reference some publication that answers the question definitively.

Iím looking forward to the answer because evidently Iíll need some new knives and itís about to be the gift giving season.

My knives are 16Ē exactly.

Stephen
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nektai



Joined: 17 Dec 2004
Posts: 1019
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK I found this from Eagle. They should know what they are talking about. I will inquire about 16" x 1 3/8" x 1/8" knives in the morning. I do know their price on a set of 1 1/4 knives that they stock for a 16" Northfield jointer- $92. Custom knives are a bit more expensive and price depends on the yield they get from bar stock. We will see.

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nektai



Joined: 17 Dec 2004
Posts: 1019
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is some knife information for all of you Oliver people.

First of all it seems like the steel of the day is T1. It has a tungsten content of 18% and some people say it is the best choice for woodworkers. Others swear by the gold standard of the past 30 years M2 with a tungsten content of 6-7%. I spoke to many sales people who at time contradicted each other. Here are the sources with prices.

Charles GG Schmidt, T1 Stock made by them in USA 16" x 1 1/4" x 1/8- $92 or a custom set 16" x 1 3/8" x 1/8 for about $140

Global Tooling, T1 Stock made in their factory in China. 16" x 1 1/4" x 1/8- $67 or a custom set 16" x 1 3/8" x 1/8 for $97

American National Knife, T1 or M2 Stock made in Germany 16" x 1 1/4 x 1/8 for $82 or call them up and ask for 16" x 1 3/8" x 1/8 which they have but are not listed on the website for $89.20

I chose American National Knife 16" x 1 3/8" x 1/8 M2 (M2 has served me well in the past)
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swparish



Joined: 11 Sep 2007
Posts: 35
Location: Ft. Worth TX

PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Nico,
I love it when someone else does all the work for me.
Stephen
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nektai



Joined: 17 Dec 2004
Posts: 1019
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Considering the lack of drama it is the least that i could do!

Today I will connect the switch and see if the motor fires up.

Here is the progress










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crzypete



Joined: 16 Dec 2004
Posts: 1691
Location: New York State

PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is looking so fine. I can't wait for the conclusion of the reassemble.

Pete
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swparish



Joined: 11 Sep 2007
Posts: 35
Location: Ft. Worth TX

PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty.
It appears from the distance that the photos were taken that there isn't any red on the Oliver nameplate. I would draw your attention to a previous post by Pete illustrating in some detail how one should go about doing that job properly. http://machinejunkie.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12 I mean would you wash your car and not wash the wheels?

Stephen
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nektai



Joined: 17 Dec 2004
Posts: 1019
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Knives arrived today and they came with a free lumber pencil! I actually need this as mine is just a nub.



Crzy these are what you were asking for








Stephen these pictures should address your concern. That thread did not satisfy the combination of what I had at hand and the amount of time I was willing to give this insane pursuit.

I started with a pencil rubbing.



A bit of double stick and a quick cut with an exacto blade.



Sprayed with Regal red and I will be good to dand it back inthe moring.

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nektai



Joined: 17 Dec 2004
Posts: 1019
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you happy?



Thus ends the rebuild.
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Yvonne



Joined: 24 Jan 2018
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My husband bought this machine and I`m happy to have this )!!
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